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Old 12-17-2013, 09:53 PM   #1
Mane OP
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Bluhduh Milky oil on 07' 990 Adv?

Hi Guys,

I went to look at a 07' 990 Adv today and the bike looked fine until I took a peak at the oil (in the oil dipstick), and it was milky as if it has water on it.

My first thought was that it was probable a waterpump seal gone bad and that some coolant may have mixed with the engine oil. The other possibility that comes to mind if that it may be just water as a result of condensation getting trapped through heat cycles. What do you guys think?

The milky color is more on the side of brown than milk.

The bike has 15k miles aprox and it is a trade in at a BMW dealer.

There's no certain way to know for how long the bike has been with the milky oil and I guess the previous owner wasn't even aware of this. As a potential buyer is this a big reason for concern or is just a matter of replacing the oil and fixing the water pump?

I wonder, if this oil has been this way for a year or so, it could have damage some components such as clutch or bearings.

Would you guys pass up and try to workout a deal?

regards,
Mario
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Old 12-17-2013, 10:06 PM   #2
gjcarving
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Others will chime in for sure, and there may be multiple causes. I do know though that sometimes milky looking oil can do with moisture condensing and not getting burned off. From what I have experienced and also been told, if a bike is started multiple times and not really run to full operating temps, it can allow for moisture build up in the oil and look milky. I had this happen to a bike of mine. A bike at a dealer I could definitely see get started many times throughout the week without ever getting ridden. Hope that helps, and as said other will give input.
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Old 12-17-2013, 10:16 PM   #3
Yascher
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90% water pump seal and shaft failure, which is one of the most well known issues on 9X0 and easy to prevent and fix.

Only question how long was the bike like that before????

Usually if caught on time should be no probs, in other cases it will damage crank bearings and camshaft lobes and so on....

Also can plug the oil filter and cause oil starvationwith more parts to damage

read the HOW section on top of the forum!
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Old 12-18-2013, 04:33 AM   #4
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No matter what I would change the oil..

Are You loosing coolant, or is the level in the overflowbottle consistent?

Oillight flicker?
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Old 12-18-2013, 05:22 AM   #5
Mane OP
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Yes, I worry about the possible damage to engine components if the bike was sitting for a while with this problem. No way to know for sure at this time.

However, I also wonder if any real damage could have been done, since the oil should have signfically reduce the corrosion effect of coolant. It would just be a oil change and watepump fix at the end, right?

About loosing coolant, it could be a slow leak across a long time, so small for someone to notice in day in day out use.

Any suggestions for ways to check on this? Is a wavy oil filter a sure fire way to diagnose coolant on the oil?

Please remember the bike is at dealership, and I really doubt they'll want to tear up the bike just for a proof of concept...

Thanks for your help, it is highly appreciated.

Regards,
Mane
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Old 12-18-2013, 02:16 PM   #6
sstewart
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Water

Have the dealer drain the oil and check the filter,maybe it has. SS filter in it. You will know for sure if the bike has a paper filter.
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Old 12-18-2013, 03:40 PM   #7
Oilburner375
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The bike has 15k miles aprox and it is a trade in at a BMW dealer.


Who in the hell traded their 990 in on GS . That is what would concern me. Just sayin.
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Old 12-18-2013, 04:22 PM   #8
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Point them to the HOW. Show the potential problems. Offer them way less money to take it as is. If they hesitate, give them your name and walk out. I can see them calling you in a few weeks.

It's a gamble. You may only need a WP seal and oil change.
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Old 12-18-2013, 05:40 PM   #9
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Eek

Thanks for your contribution to all of you..

After reading everybody's posts and doing some research here on OC and www.ktm950.info on the water pump issue, I'm having a hard time making a decision.

So far, my next possible steps are...

1.Ask the dealer to drop the oil and check the oil filter.
2.Possible conclude, than in fact, the water pump seals need replacement
3.Ask the dealer for a discount similar to the amount required for parts and some labor. (The dealer staff are friends of mine and been playing fair, so I don't really want to take advantage of this situation)
4.Buy the bike, and fix it myself. (After all, I should get acquainted with the bike anyway... )

BUT...I can't still figure out whats the possible long term effects it could had been done to the engine. If I could get into costly engine repairs related to coolant contaminated oil resting on the engine (cams, rods, clutch, etc..) I might as well leave it alone and don't ask the dealer to take any actions on a bike I might not end buying after all.

What do you guys would do if you were on my shoes?

Regards,
Mario
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Old 12-18-2013, 05:51 PM   #10
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I think you've got the perfect lever for a heafty discount. Well done on spotting the milky oil.

I'd take a chance on there being no serious damage and talk them into letting it go as-is.. for a heafty discount.

The most likely causes are, condensation, shaft/seal kit, clutch inner case slightly distorted or gasket missfit in that order. All easy and cheap fixes.

The only serious issue could be a head gasket/warped head due to running with no coolant for example, but very unlikely.
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Old 12-18-2013, 06:23 PM   #11
Mane OP
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ICERIDER,

Thanks for your advice, sure it would be a gamble.

Is condensation common on the LC8 engine?

I have only seen its effects on older air cooled engines so far.

It is my uneducated guess that a watercooled engine is so much efficient at heat management that it should deal better with condensation. (And yes it is a brain fart, with no factual data to back it up... ).

Regards,
Mane
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Old 12-18-2013, 06:40 PM   #12
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Ask for the bike to be serviced. Oil and fluid changed, then demo it for the weekend......ride it hard and see what everything looks like. If its ok, write the check, if not, haggle .......
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Old 12-18-2013, 09:15 PM   #13
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The otd price is the deciding factor.
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Old 12-18-2013, 10:24 PM   #14
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Call me a cynic, but I wouldn't trust the mileage. What's the coolant overflow tank look like? any black or gray in there?
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Old 12-19-2013, 07:42 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mane View Post
ICERIDER,

Thanks for your advice, sure it would be a gamble.

Is condensation common on the LC8 engine?

I have only seen its effects on older air cooled engines so far.

It is my uneducated guess that a watercooled engine is so much efficient at heat management that it should deal better with condensation. (And yes it is a brain fart, with no factual data to back it up... ).

Regards,
Mane
Depends... An aircooled could actually run hotter in certain areas so this would dry the oil better, but it might not be so well vented, so many variables.

Suffice to say it does happen to the LC8 especially if it's been started many times and not run hot, as could be in this case depending how long they've been trying to sell it.

The thing is if you get them to do the oil/filter change, plus other work, and it runs good you might loose you bargaining position. If they don't know much about the LC8 they might be glad to get rid of it.

Up to you. Good luck.
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