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View Results: Which version looks best/ would interest you?
Carbon Fiber w/ running lights 15 17.86%
Carbon Fiber w/o running lights 3 3.57%
Brushed Aluminum w/ running lights 12 14.29%
Brushed Aluminum w/o running lights 8 9.52%
Black Anodized Aluminum w/ running lights 33 39.29%
Black Anodized Aluminum w/o running lights 13 15.48%
Voters: 84. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 01-16-2014, 04:14 AM   #61
CopperGreen OP
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Yeah, the H4 socket is real tight on the Truck-Lite. Goes on with finger pressure and you can pull them apart by hand too but a screw driver to wedge them apart is easiest. Well we know it won't vibrate apart!
I'll come up with a small installation guide.
The easiest way I found to install the kit is to have the whole thing assembled on the bench first, with the rear most adapter ring loose and the top two rock guard screws, washers and stand-offs in but loose. These two will hold the stack of part together. First slip the adapter ring on the bikes stock light mount, connect the H4 and then attach the kit, top center screw first but still loose. Seat the assembly with a little jiggle and install the bottom two stand-offs and screws. Once all have been started only then tighten snug, but not don't over tighten. Say half a turn.
Sounds like you do better when rushed then I do...I always get frustrated and impatient and in general bugger up what would otherwise be a simple operation.



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Old 01-16-2014, 05:08 AM   #62
Bungholio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CopperGreen View Post
Yeah, the H4 socket is real tight on the Truck-Lite. Goes on with finger pressure and you can pull them apart by hand too but a screw driver to wedge them apart is easiest. Well we know it won't vibrate apart!
I'll come up with a small installation guide.
The easiest way I found to install the kit is to have the whole thing assembled on the bench first, with the rear most adapter ring loose and the top two rock guard screws, washers and stand-offs in but loose. These two will hold the stack of part together. First slip the adapter ring on the bikes stock light mount, connect the H4 and then attach the kit, top center screw first but still loose. Seat the assembly with a little jiggle and install the bottom two stand-offs and screws. Once all have been started only then tighten snug, but not don't over tighten. Say half a turn.
Sounds like you do better when rushed then I do...I always get frustrated and impatient and in general bugger up what would otherwise be a simple operation.



Divide and exploit. Works every time.
I was thinking, after I was finished, that I could have assembled it all on the light and
PUT in as one piece. I does seem to throw more light in the inside of the fairing. I will need to get some black foam to block that. There was some from the stock light too but not near as much.

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Old 01-16-2014, 07:23 AM   #63
Bungholio
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Originally Posted by Bungholio View Post
OK, no pictures yet but the install went pretty well. I'll try to take a couple photos when I leave work in the morning. Took about an hour including removing the stocker but I was rushing. Had to get the picture back out to see how the parts were supposed to fit together and after that it went a little smoother. Gotta look at the picture guys. The plug on the light is really tight, took some effort to plug in and then when I realized 2 of the parts go on before plugging in the light it took even more effort to unplug it. I got the top screw started and then got the other parts on and the left lower screw went in partway so I had some play to get the other one started but it didn't thread in. Looked like it was off half a hole. I realized after looking with the flashlight there is a lip on the headlight rear shell that I needed to "Flex" a little to go inside the rear stainless piece. Once that was in, the screw started and I tightened it all up.
These pieces are very tight fitting together, meaning they have no play and it's very accurate cutting. I tried installing it with the fairing on but took it off when I could not get the screw started. Just take the fairing off first thing its much easier.

I put the fairing back on and started the bike, checked the beam and it looked about the right height so I went for a ride around the neighborhood. Low beam seemed about right, there is a very wide light pattern right in front and spans practically the whole road width. Seems to be a spotlight pattern that shoots out and lights up the center quite a ways in front center of road. High beam is really nice, illuminates the road well and signs really light up in the distance.

I think it looks pretty cool and I'm happy.

I'll try to get some riding picts and some as installed photos tomorrow.
The "As Installed" photos:











Tried to take some on a dark road with the cell phone but they didn't show anything different between low beam and high beam. Maybe I'll do a GoPro video while riding at night.
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Old 01-16-2014, 08:44 AM   #64
DRONE
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Question for any of the beta testers that use the OEM BMW clear windscreen. How's the scatter with the new lamp? By this I mean does the windscreen capture some of the light and direct it back towards the rider?
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Old 01-16-2014, 12:11 PM   #65
CopperGreen OP
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This weekend I'll design a rail of folded thin sheet aluminum that will block the offending reflection. I'll post what I come up with.



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Old 01-16-2014, 07:20 PM   #66
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I couldn't wait.
What about something like this???
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Old 01-19-2014, 11:52 AM   #67
sdpc2
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Thats rather ironic

that was one of my first thoughts... wonder how much light escapes out the top of this... either reflecting back off of the plexiglass, or through the top of the plexiglass edge.

It looks like you have already come up with a great fixit...

can't wait till i can get one of these on my old girl....
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Old 01-19-2014, 02:05 PM   #68
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Soon.
I'm in a holding pattern after a less than stellar first review. Regardless, I will make some of the scatter shields and send to the three beta testers to see if that satisfies.
The scatter doesn't bother me because there is so much light out in front on the road that to me, the back scatter looks like expensive cockpit accent lighting. But I understand how some wouldn't think the same. I'm glad it was pointed out- it is a legit complaint and one that should be addressed, and I will.
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Old 01-20-2014, 11:39 AM   #69
guitstik
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CG, I had the same complaint with the stock headlight so it shouldn't be a problem for me. I am just now getting the Truck-lite installed on my bike because I had a speedo failure that I had to fix so the front end was torn apart for service. Question: what have you been suggesting folks do with the parking light in the headlight?
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Old 01-20-2014, 12:15 PM   #70
pbrokaw
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I guess I have not looked for the backscattered light effect yet. I am running a Z technik touring height windscreen on my beast so mine will probably be different than the OEM screen guys. I would go out to the garage and test mine...But it's loaded onto the trailer for this coming weekend's tech day.My bike is going to be the star performer.New rear main seal,spline lube and clutch disk inspection.

Perry
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Old 01-20-2014, 05:56 PM   #71
guitstik
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Dam it all to heck!!!

With the weather being gorgeous today I was able to get a few items done to the bike, one being the Truck-lite headlight upgrade. CopperGreen's adapter made adding the Truck-lite a breeze. I mounted the rear-most bezel to the headlight bucket first and then with the rest of the adapter already on the headlight it was just a matter of connecting the H4 pigtail to the bikes outlet and then lining all the bolts up and tightening starting with the top middle bolt. I had to wait until it got dark enough out for me to take it for a ride to see how it improved my lighting and to see how far out of adjustment the headlight was. DAM this thing is bright. On both low and high beam you get a wide swath of brilliant white with a bright triangle of light directly in front of you. High beam adds a second rectangle of light stacked on top of the low beam so when looking at it in the saddle it rather looks like a three layer cake of light. I live way out in the country with no street lights and only the odd tungsten shop light on someones garage well off of the street, when the Truck-lite hit street signs it was as if they had burst into flames. High beam was the most impressive. The improvement of the Truck-lite over the stock headlight is literally like night and day. About a month ago I added a set of auxiliary driving lights to augment the stock low beam on the bike and it made a huge improvement to the point of wishing that I had hooked them up to constant power so they could be used with the high beam as well. But with the addition of the Truck-lite, low beam now over powers the driving lights so much that I could not even tell that I had them on, now I have to buy a set of the Truck-lite driving lights just to be cool again. I am going to have to adjust the light so that it hits a little farther in front of the bike than what it does now because of deer. That is not disparaging the Truck-lite more like going in and fixing what I screwed up when I took the dash out to repair a botched electrical nightmare the PO left me and the speedometer cable I replaced. Taking the instrument cluster off meant removing the headlight bucket and the adjustment linkage getting it out of wack. I have a Givi windscreen that I modified to give me more top edge forward movement which puts the bottom edge of the screen farther out over the headlight. With the stock headlight I had a lot of spill over light in the cockpit area behind the instrument cluster that was somewhat distracting. With the adapter and the Truck-lite mounted just slightly forward of the where the stock light had been, I got very little light there. Another thing that I noticed is the power draw has gone down. I have a volt light that lets me know the condition of the battery prior to cranking and the voltage out put of the alternator. The bike had been sitting idle for a few days, not hooked up to the tender, while I got the parts together for the speedometer fix. Usually, when I first turn the key on the voltage light shows 11.5 or less and then after starting up I have to bring the RPM's up to get the light to go green showing 12.5 or better. When I turned the key on today the light was green showing 12.5v or better at the battery meaning that the light isn't drawing enough to show low voltage. The only other time it glowed green was when I first installed the Euro right hand switches and had the headlight turned off. Over all, I am impressed with both the Truck-lite AND CopperGreen's adapter and I am glad that he came up with this or I would be continually adding brighter auxiliary lights to compensate for the inadequate stock headlight
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Old 01-20-2014, 06:17 PM   #72
CopperGreen OP
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I'm so glad you like it.
Happy, and now more safe journeys my friend. I'll get you the scatter guard as soon as i can. Since you ride in unlit regions, the back scatter could be a bigger problem then if you were traveling on well lit streets.
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Old 01-20-2014, 06:22 PM   #73
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I updated my post to reflect the sentiments of another's concern here about light behind the screen, to wit, I have non. I would much rather have the LED lights to fill the holes but that will be my problem to deal with I am just happy to have a vastly improved headlight.
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Old 01-20-2014, 06:24 PM   #74
CopperGreen OP
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I'll take care of you...
I think it should be explained I sent him my very first prototype, free to try. It was drilled for conspicuity LEDs but as we discussed, I did not include them. Sent along some black retro tape to cover them.
Celebration time....hard work not in vain!
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Old 01-20-2014, 09:49 PM   #75
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I have the Givi windscreen, same as CG it looks, and I realized it was tilted a bit farther forward than I had it previously with the stock headlight. I tilted it back some but still get some light on the inside of the fairing. I had some with the stock light too but it was on the sides. I find light on the inside of the fairing distracting and irritating. I stuffed a shop rag into the area above the to the side of the HL and no light is reflecting off the fairing. The scatter guard CG has designed may be enough to block the light reflections. I still feel some closed cell black foam around the HL area is beneficial.

Tried to take some pictures to illustrate but the other dash lights and HL beam out front wash out the photo so its not able to show anything. My GIVI has the black lower half.

Bungholio screwed with this post 01-20-2014 at 09:56 PM
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