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Old 01-09-2014, 07:06 AM   #16
jimroid
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Makes sense to me.Industrial gearboxes are the same procedure for oil fill levels.If this were mine I would put Yamalube 4 stroke engine oil [Factory recommended for 2-stroke transmissions] in the trans. And I would run it at 32/1 pre-mix. Just my 2 cents worth.
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Old 01-09-2014, 07:35 AM   #17
RustyStuff
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bisbonian View Post
I think I may have this figured out.

The right side cover has the DKW badge screwed on. If I unscrew that badge then I open up a large hole in the side cover through which I can see the clutch. right below that badge is a screw.

I think that I'm supposed to fill through the hole behind the DKW badge until oil drips out the screw hole below it.

Make sense?

The Aermacchi 50cc "Harleys" are like that, remove cover and fill.
Nice bike, probably fairly uncommon.
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RustyStuff screwed with this post 01-09-2014 at 07:50 AM Reason: Added one too many E's
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Old 01-09-2014, 08:08 AM   #18
EltonAvenue
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Bluhduh

I'm thinking that you have nothing to lose by trying it....& if you think about it, they wouldn't have put such industrial sized screws there just to hold the badge on...............would they?!?!?!?
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Old 01-09-2014, 04:11 PM   #19
stainlesscycle
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fill it like an ossa. remove badge, and fluid level screw (below the badge). fill it till it weeps out the fluid level screw hole. put the cover and screws back on. i bet it takes 500-650cc or so of fluid. you may need to leave the level screw in for a while, as when you fill it, it may run right out the weep hole.. and behind the badge is probably the clutch rod adjuster.. or mabye not.

i bet that bottom end is a box full neutrals till you get it figured out. those external selector setups can be touchy...

i'd run it at 24:1 and see how that goes..
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Old 01-13-2014, 02:54 PM   #20
bisbonian OP
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Found a good web resource for this today: http://www.zweirad-union-mopeds.de/s...eirad-union/1/

It's all in German so I've been making good use of Google translate. They even have some parts available and I was able to download the wiring diagram, it's a simple wiring diagram but at least I have one.
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Old 01-24-2014, 09:29 AM   #21
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Well I guess I had to have a bit of a downer somewhere.

Decided to work on the carburetor since cleaning it up would be cheap. Screwed off the float bowl and found this:



Not only that, the float bowl didn't so much screw off as break off. Luckily I found a similar model on ebay that should work with what I've got, just waiting for it to show up.
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Old 01-25-2014, 06:32 AM   #22
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Old 01-29-2014, 02:53 PM   #23
bisbonian OP
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Got my "new" carb in the mail today.

Once slight difference, new one is on the right:



You can see the long extension of the center bore out into where the air filter should be.

Another angle:



It looks like a simple process to just dremel the center part out of there and make it flush like the original was.

Can it really be that easy? I don't see a downside other than screwing it up and having to start over finding another carb.

The four holes in the bell of the original carb don't appear to go anywhere.

From what I've read, the first two sets of numbers on Bing carbs denote the type and size, then the third set is just a different version for things such as jet sizes. The old carb is a 1/17/48 and the new one a 1/17/89 so in theory they should be mostly interchangeable.
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Old 01-29-2014, 03:25 PM   #24
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Holy cats, looking for rebuild parts and find a place who has new replacements for these carbs. Should have honed my google skills better before jumping on this used carb...
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Old 02-05-2014, 01:07 PM   #25
Neil E.
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If the carb looks to match up in all the other aspects, you could leave the air entry alone. Clip the rear section on and run a hose into the frame. Put a universal filter of some sort on the hose end inside the frame. I have used sections cut from molded radiator hose for air cleaner hookup with no issues. Only you can tell if something else can be made to fit.

Years ago the auto parts stores had a wall full of molded rad hoses. They would take them down one at a time to measure the ID. Maybe you can find something close enough to work.
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Old 02-05-2014, 01:14 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Neil E. View Post
If the carb looks to match up in all the other aspects, you could leave the air entry alone. Clip the rear section on and run a hose into the frame. Put a universal filter of some sort on the hose end inside the frame. I have used sections cut from molded radiator hose for air cleaner hookup with no issues. Only you can tell if something else can be made to fit.

Years ago the auto parts stores had a wall full of molded rad hoses. They would take them down one at a time to measure the ID. Maybe you can find something close enough to work.
I went ahead and bought the knock-off. I got it in the other day and it is almost identical to the original (without all the crust). Right now I have it at the shop to get a throttle cable made. It was going to cost at least another $50 to get the used carb into any sort of shape and I'm pretty stoked about the new carb.

The hose from the carb to the frame is available, but it's expensive at about 50 Euro. I will definitely be looking into some less expensive options when I get that far.

My mistake right now is that I popped the flywheel off in order to clean up under it. I think I have it back on in the right position...

There is a keyway slot in the flywheel but no keyway on the crank. However I can see as mark on the crank where the keyway slot was positioned so I should be good there. I also ordered a manual for this engine so once that comes in (and I'm able to translate it to English) I should know better.
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