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Old 01-07-2014, 05:48 PM   #1
skidxr OP
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Water Pump Bearings

I'm doing the CJ Designs water pump kit on my 2007 990 Adv. Do you really have to do the bearings as well? Nothing is leaking that I know of and the bearings feel fine.
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Old 01-07-2014, 06:00 PM   #2
charlie264
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Originally Posted by skidxr View Post
I'm doing the CJ Designs water pump kit on my 2007 990 Adv. Do you really have to do the bearings as well? Nothing is leaking that I know of and the bearings feel fine.
If the bearings feel fine, feel for any side play.. I wouldn't bother. I replaced mine after 16k and they were fine.
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Old 01-07-2014, 07:10 PM   #3
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I warped my inner cover the last time that I pulled mine off to change the water pump. The next time, I'm going to do what someone on here did and just carefully drill into the seal and pull it out with a couple of screws. If the shaft is still fine, you just shove a new seal on and bolt it back together.
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Old 01-07-2014, 07:40 PM   #4
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I warped my inner cover the last time that I pulled mine off to change the water pump.
How?
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Old 01-07-2014, 08:03 PM   #5
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How?
Dunno for sure. I did the oven thing, and I felt I did it properly. The original red seal was just about welded to the cover, so it did take a lot of effort to get it out. I put everything back just right and torqued all the bolts in properly, and I used a new gasket.

Soon thereafter, the bike started pumping oil into the radiator. Slowly at first, and then I went on a 500 mile road trip and had an overflow tank full of oil. I assumed a bad head gasket, so I pulled the motor. When we pulled the heads, I could see no sign of a bad gasket. As we put the motor back together, we checked the cover and found it slightly warped right behind the water pump -- where there are water and oil jackets close to each other. We did a little surfacing on that part at a machine shop's surfacing table.

KTM top-end engine rebuild: $1,500
Ambulance ride to the hospital after throwing out back pickup up said motor: $495.
Hospital bill: $795 (but really good drugs!)
A properly running LC8: Priceless

So, it's not a bad idea to just put that inner cover on a very flat surface (glass table?) before you put it back on to see if the engine mating side has any warp. If so, just a quick touch of it at a machine shop, and you should be good to go. Also put a little extra sealant around those water and oil jacket areas.
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Old 01-08-2014, 04:48 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Orangecicle View Post
I warped my inner cover the last time that I pulled mine off to change the water pump. The next time, I'm going to do what someone on here did and just carefully drill into the seal and pull it out with a couple of screws. If the shaft is still fine, you just shove a new seal on and bolt it back together.
Drilling sounds a good idea. I tried the screw thing to emulate a field seal change but I didn't realise how much steel is in the seal carcass. I ended up pushing the screw into the bearing and bending its seal. Renewed the lot.
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Old 01-08-2014, 06:04 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Orangecicle View Post
Dunno for sure. I did the oven thing, and I felt I did it properly. The original red seal was just about welded to the cover, so it did take a lot of effort to get it out. I put everything back just right and torqued all the bolts in properly, and I used a new gasket.

Soon thereafter, the bike started pumping oil into the radiator. Slowly at first, and then I went on a 500 mile road trip and had an overflow tank full of oil. I assumed a bad head gasket, so I pulled the motor. When we pulled the heads, I could see no sign of a bad gasket. As we put the motor back together, we checked the cover and found it slightly warped right behind the water pump -- where there are water and oil jackets close to each other. We did a little surfacing on that part at a machine shop's surfacing table.

KTM top-end engine rebuild: $1,500
Ambulance ride to the hospital after throwing out back pickup up said motor: $495.
Hospital bill: $795 (but really good drugs!)
A properly running LC8: Priceless

So, it's not a bad idea to just put that inner cover on a very flat surface (glass table?) before you put it back on to see if the engine mating side has any warp. If so, just a quick touch of it at a machine shop, and you should be good to go. Also put a little extra sealant around those water and oil jacket areas.
Bad one, your the second person I've read about warping the case after following KTM instructions, personally I wont bother in future....I didn't feel it made the job any easier, with such small bearing I believe KTM were just concerned about bearing damage. Cut and old bearing and use the outer to tap the new bearing in.

If you're replacing seal and shaft, remove the rear cir clip and use the old shaft to push the seal our.
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Old 01-08-2014, 06:30 AM   #8
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I just did the water pump seal on my 950. At some point a previous owner had put in a new hardened shaft. I've put 25000+ miles on it and the shaft showed no wear at the sealing point, just a shiny ring. The grey seal did show a bit of flattening on the lips. I just pushed it right out with the shaft. The bearings were smooth, clean and tight so I left them alone.
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Old 01-08-2014, 01:19 PM   #9
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