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Old 02-01-2014, 01:11 AM   #46
innathyzit OP
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Location: Nelson NZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Padmei View Post
Umm you called it a diff - I got in trouble for calling it that. Its' correct name is final drive.
I have found traces of damp dust around the breather cap which indicates to me that there is a minimal amount of oil weeping/ blown out.

the big prob when adv riding is the gearbox & FD get hot then suck in water when doing water crossings hence the gearbox breather tubes nutso & I have put on. Were you there on the 1st DB when I went up a long climb & the oil began blowing out the gearbox breather tube under the seat? No? oh well mustn't have happened then.

The oil will only go onto the rear brakes of the rear seal inside the hub is faulty. I have replace mine when I got it - easy job.

The older monos had a wet driveshaft - although there are seals between gearbox, DS & FD there is oil in all 3 items. The paras (yours is a para) has a dry driveshaft housing. You can check if the seals are ok by carefully slipping off the rear rubber boot & see if any oil comes out. A lil bit - a spoonful? is ok but anymore then seals need replacing. this isn't a big job but certain tools are required.

TBH you should get the manual out & take the DS out to have a looksie at it. I can take mine out inspect & button up within an hour now. I would be interested to see if your DS is out of phase & if so by how much.

Just nipped down to the shed and took the rear boot off. Exxon Valdez territory. A lot of smelly hypoid oil ran out, which explains the exra 100ml on the DIFF this arvo. had a suspicion something wasn't quite right there. Ah well never mind.

funny thing is that the gearbox oil is clean whereas this is black. Odd

No rainbow ride for me tomorrow now.
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Old 02-01-2014, 01:13 AM   #47
Padmei
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FFS don't start getting like I was. it's not going to blow up & prob has been like that for a while. If you've got oil in the places it should be you'll be right if not top it up.
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Old 02-01-2014, 01:20 AM   #48
innathyzit OP
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Originally Posted by Padmei View Post
FFS don't start getting like I was. it's not going to blow up & prob has been like that for a while. If you've got oil in the places it should be you'll be right if not top it up.

Yea nah, already pulled out.

So what do you suggest, put the boot back on and keep an eye on fluids for a while, or rip the thing apart now and mend it?
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Old 02-01-2014, 02:01 AM   #49
msmckeon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Padmei View Post
FFS don't start getting like I was. it's not going to blow up & prob has been like that for a while. If you've got oil in the places it should be you'll be right if not top it up.
I agree. Monitor the situation, if you have a very slow leak into the shaft and you have little change in gearbox or final drive level, you may as well get to know your bike a little better by riding it while you plan a repair.

Michael
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Old 02-01-2014, 02:34 AM   #50
innathyzit OP
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Originally Posted by msmckeon View Post
I agree. Monitor the situation, if you have a very slow leak into the shaft and you have little change in gearbox or final drive level, you may as well get to know your bike a little better by riding it while you plan a repair.

Michael

yea good call, but this is how it is.

When I first got the bike a week or so ago i rode it 900kms home and there was only slight weepage. Since then i have done approx 300kms and there is a reasonable amount of weepage. The diff was over filled by 100mls, and i estimate approx 150mm came out of the swingarm, thats 250ml of oil presumably from the gearbox . My assumption is that the oil in the swingarm and diff are relatively recent .

I won't pull it apart but monitor it like you and padmei suggest as you guys have more experience and I am a noob.
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Old 02-01-2014, 02:44 AM   #51
Voltaire
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Quote:
Diff
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Old 02-01-2014, 12:20 PM   #52
Padmei
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DIFF

I know, he said it out loud - man has that guy got a lot to learn.

When I found what you have discovered http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...=609828&page=9 I put different coloured oil in the FD & gearbox. Unfortunately 3 diff gearoils I bought were the same colour so I added a bit of green food colouring to the gearbox oil.
I found mine to be coming from the gearbox seal. It is an easy replacement however the rear flange needs to be either rattled off (City Mcs did it for me for $20) or you need the flange extracter which Nutso has.
If you want to borrow my manuals till you get a couple let me know. otherwise I can give you a hand.

My rear gearbox seal blew completely at THAT dusty butt just after I did a little jump. I think it rooted the front UJ & the movement stuffed the seal.

I sent my final drive away to the expert & he inspected it & put it back together. There is a knack to the shimming from what I've heard.

Edit: Just in on the wire http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=950506

Padmei screwed with this post 02-01-2014 at 01:00 PM
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Old 02-01-2014, 02:41 PM   #53
innathyzit OP
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Chur Bro,

Might just do a few basic checks with whats left of the morning (slept in) then go for a decent ride after lunch.

Should have taken the KLR on the rainbow ride
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Old 02-01-2014, 03:32 PM   #54
innathyzit OP
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Fuel Consumption:

The ride to havelock and back the other night was 13.7km per litre.

Was riding it in the upper rev range in the twisty bits and may have occaisionally gone over the speed limit, but ouch.

Are they known for sucking gas when pushed?

The KLR gets about 18km/l on average, but a lot more when ridden hard, so maybe its about right considering the bigger engine and more weight etc.

Woodman Oh Woodman where are you? You seem to have been replaced by this odd airhead obsessed bloke.
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Old 02-01-2014, 04:03 PM   #55
Voltaire
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Question? Is the BMW shaft on a paralever run in a dry shaft?

Waffle bit:
Guzzi's are and apparently some owners tip a bit of oil in there to help keep corrosion at bay.
The actual drive X's are sealed, I've pulled a Guzzi one apart and its just a pin with needle rollers around them. I gather they can be rebuilt locally at a car place.
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Old 02-01-2014, 04:22 PM   #56
ztaj
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FWIW..... I checked the oil/tire pressure and chain tension, it was all good so I went for a ride
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Old 02-01-2014, 04:51 PM   #57
Padmei
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have you gone riding yet? All the girls are doing girly stuff so I guess I have to go for a ride - not too far cos I don't want to spend too much on gas. I got 16L/100kms the other day riding very conservatively. I have gone thru a bit more doing spirited riding like the other nite.

Anyway I will prob go Wairoa gorge or something but will text you anyway.
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Old 02-01-2014, 05:21 PM   #58
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went for a ride last Saturday. out past Marakopa to Awakino and back north. 350kms. got home and rear wheel covered in oil. rear seal on gearbox. Ordered that and a heap of other bits from Motorworks on monday night 10.30pm. parts arrived yesterday morning. I was give the Peedee a workout after the G/S got a workout. but unfortunately that has now kumped the queue.
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Old 02-01-2014, 11:02 PM   #59
msmckeon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by innathyzit View Post
Fuel Consumption:

The ride to havelock and back the other night was 13.7km per litre.

Was riding it in the upper rev range in the twisty bits and may have occaisionally gone over the speed limit, but ouch.

Are they known for sucking gas when pushed?

.
I have owned eight two valve twins since 1987. 17 - 18 km/l represents the best economy usually achieved. I am a gentle rider.
In my experience the 800 achieves worse fuel economy than a 1000 when things are challenging, heavy loads and headwinds. The worst results achieved were in the 13 - 14 km/l range. A thorough carb rebuild after I purchased my current 80GS instantly changed economy from this 13-14 range to 17-18.
If you are using high revs and power your 13 is what you would expect. Despite their low power these bikes are not that efficient.

The most consistently economical two valve twins I owned were my two Monolever R100RS's (small carbs and high ratio final drive) and R100CS (high compression ratio and minimal exhaust resistance compared to later bikes).

I would not get that down, super high mileage/abused/neglected bikes aside, once initial after purchase niggles are sorted these bikes can be very dependable (unless you are unlucky), albeit they need a reasonable amount of (easy) routine maintenance, as you would expect from a drivetrain design dating from the 1960's. That has always been my experience.

Having said that, I have not been impressed with the Paralever setup. After years of no problem Monolever shaft drives, having to get close up and personal with the 80GS one it gave me the impression of a "bodge up". Design team trying to squeeze a no rise/fall system into a space not big enough for it and without the budget to heavily revise the product that late in its life to do a decent job.


Regards,
Michael
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Old 02-02-2014, 01:05 AM   #60
Kokopelli
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Quote:
Originally Posted by innathyzit View Post
Fuel Consumption:

The ride to havelock and back the other night was 13.7km per litre.

Was riding it in the upper rev range in the twisty bits and may have occaisionally gone over the speed limit, but ouch.

Are they known for sucking gas when pushed?

The KLR gets about 18km/l on average, but a lot more when ridden hard, so maybe its about right considering the bigger engine and more weight etc.

Woodman Oh Woodman where are you? You seem to have been replaced by this odd airhead obsessed bloke.
Probably due for a carb clean out. Buy the kit and do it yourself. Basil did that to me on a ride back from the Capital Coast event. Got it down from 8 litres per 100km to 6 litres. If you go hard, you'll obvilusly need more. But if you go a hard often, you have bought the wrong bike :-).
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