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Old 02-12-2014, 12:51 AM   #91
Box'a'bits
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Couple of pictures from the net. I'll correct myself. There are three wires. One red one from the diode board, a black one from the diode board, & a big one which goes out into the main wiring loom to the battery



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Old 02-12-2014, 09:29 AM   #92
innathyzit OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Box'a'bits View Post
Given you have just taken out & rebuilt the starter, then it should just be a case of re-inserting that, bolting it up, & replacing the wiring.

Did you disconnect the battery negative before you took off the front cover? If you didn't there is a possiblity you may have fried the diodes. It only takes a light brush of the cover on the diode board to do so.

I have to disagree with the prior poster. The alternator is adequate (but I have upgraded anyway), the valeo is a strong starter motor, & the batteries are large for the bikes. The kick starter is not only not necessary, but is a known weak point on the bikes. There is a world of difference between a late airhead, & a /6. The differences between Gus & my '78 RS are fairly major.
Its a new starter although I did buy a new magnet housing as well. It is wired correctly.Padmei advised me to disconnect the battery if removing front cover so i did.

I did get the bolt on terminals on the old starter round the wrong way which caused a few sparks.

How do I check if the diode board is fried? It looks ok. Bit of flaky paint on it though.

Will get some meters today and figure out how to use them.
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Old 02-12-2014, 10:37 AM   #93
Box'a'bits
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If you disconnected first you are probably good. Here's a link to wade thru. Google is your friend
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Old 02-12-2014, 11:05 AM   #94
Padmei
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Can I politely enquire as to whether you have purchased a manual yet? It does help greatly. I'd help you but I'm off to Queenstown this weekend. You are most welcome to borrow my manuals spares etc if it helps. I don't think anything is broken on your electrics but something has been left off.

with the alternator lite it isn't like a normal setup with 12v on one side of the lampholder & an earth (-) on the other. It is more like 12v on one side & 0v on the other.

When the alternator charges - above 3K rpm- it supplies 12v to the 0v (-) side of the lampholder which cancels out the lite.
when the revs drop so does the voltage on the 0v side causing a difference of 12v which makes the lamp come back on.
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Old 02-12-2014, 09:44 PM   #95
innathyzit OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Box'a'bits View Post
If you disconnected first you are probably good. Here's a link to wade thru. Google is your friend
That link may as well be written in Klingon. I am special needs when it come to tricity.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Padmei View Post
Can I politely enquire as to whether you have purchased a manual yet? It does help greatly. I'd help you but I'm off to Queenstown this weekend. You are most welcome to borrow my manuals spares etc if it helps. I don't think anything is broken on your electrics but something has been left off.

with the alternator lite it isn't like a normal setup with 12v on one side of the lampholder & an earth (-) on the other. It is more like 12v on one side & 0v on the other.

When the alternator charges - above 3K rpm- it supplies 12v to the 0v (-) side of the lampholder which cancels out the lite.
when the revs drop so does the voltage on the 0v side causing a difference of 12v which makes the lamp come back on.
No manual yet. You also speak Klingon.

Have fun in Queenstown
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Old 02-13-2014, 04:11 PM   #96
Voltaire
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Looking at a generic R100GS diagram the wire from the starter button goes on the solenoid and the main battery wire and the one to the diode board go on the large power terminal on the starter.
Interesting with German stuff is the standard colour coding and numbering system.
Heres a link showing what the color and terminal numbers mean.
Common to all German vehicles
http://www.google.co.nz/url?sa=t&rct...,d.aGc&cad=rja

I'm a sparkie by trade but I learned all my auto wiring on VW's.
Italian wiring is hard to fathom, British is even worse.
Check that and if red light stays on we can go from there.
As for Snowbums stuff my eyes glaze over.....mainly at the font, but its a good resource.
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Old 02-13-2014, 11:35 PM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Voltaire View Post
Looking at a generic R100GS diagram the wire from the starter button goes on the solenoid and the main battery wire and the one to the diode board go on the large power terminal on the starter.
Interesting with German stuff is the standard colour coding and numbering system.
Heres a link showing what the color and terminal numbers mean.
Common to all German vehicles
http://www.google.co.nz/url?sa=t&rct...,d.aGc&cad=rja

I'm a sparkie by trade but I learned all my auto wiring on VW's.
Italian wiring is hard to fathom, British is even worse.
Check that and if red light stays on we can go from there.
As for Snowbums stuff my eyes glaze over.....mainly at the font, but its a good resource.

Pretty sure I have fried a diode or two on the board when I hooked the starter up the wrong way. will get a new board and fit it up for peace of mind as I like the bike and intend keeping it. No rush.

focus now is getting the KLR ready for the dustybutt which involves fitting the wheels and checking the oil, and maybe cleaning it.

Macs Hoprocker is veeeery nice .
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Old 02-14-2014, 10:17 AM   #98
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The two smaller wires that you had.
One from the starter and one from the battery?
Even if you got them mixed up its still only putting 12volts on the board.
Check the brushes in the rotor are making contact.
Before fitting a new diode board you need to be sure what caused it.
(Oh dear I have been working for IBM for too long.... but when stuff fails at work we have to get a RCA, Root Cause Analysis )

Epic Pale ale is my fav.
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Old 02-14-2014, 12:08 PM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Voltaire View Post
The two smaller wires that you had.
One from the starter and one from the battery?
Even if you got them mixed up its still only putting 12volts on the board.
Check the brushes in the rotor are making contact.
Before fitting a new diode board you need to be sure what caused it.
(Oh dear I have been working for IBM for too long.... but when stuff fails at work we have to get a RCA, Root Cause Analysis )

Epic Pale ale is my fav.

Epic Pale Ale you say, That can be next Fridays box. Liked the Stoke IPA last week.

I got me a multimeter so will do a few tests on the wiring this weekend, and check the rotor and brushes etc. Not gonna be a lot of time for shed stuff for the next few weeks.
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Old 03-11-2014, 12:05 AM   #100
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Anyone wanna buy a BMW? starting to get over this one. Starting to wonder what went through my mind when i bought it now.

Found a dead diode on the diode board so ordered a new board and new leads. Just fitted it and no friggen change,no friggen charge.

Everything measures up good, but battery is a bit low at 12.45 volts but that shouldn't make it have no charge even when bypassing the regulator. Nothing,nada,nought.

New battery tomorrow.

Thinking of doing that thing where you pay someone to fix it?

Fuck
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Old 03-11-2014, 12:34 AM   #101
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Originally Posted by Box'a'bits View Post
Couple of pictures from the net. I'll correct myself. There are three wires. One red one from the diode board, a black one from the diode board, & a big one which goes out into the main wiring loom to the battery


Please diregard prior post.

Bike now charging as it should thanks to this pic.

As you were.
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Old 03-11-2014, 12:34 AM   #102
Padmei
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Ummm don;t know if I've offered help before but I can come over with a few parts in the weekend?

Edit: You dumb fuck.

Double edit: Do you want to go for an airhead ride sometime - maybe get kokopelli over to remind him what humans look like.
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Old 03-11-2014, 12:47 AM   #103
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Ummm don;t know if I've offered help before but I can come over with a few parts in the weekend?

Edit: You dumb fuck.
Chur, actually haven't really spent much time on it as been away a lot.

A slightly less dumb fuck hopefully now. Have learned quite a bit really, and the diode board wasn't in good nick and is now solidly mounted and the dodgy leads are all new (and connected to the correct terminals).

Oh and the KLR is back on the highest pedestal in the ever increasing battle in the shed to be my favourite. Getting quite nasty in there it is.
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Old 03-11-2014, 12:49 AM   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Padmei View Post
Ummm don;t know if I've offered help before but I can come over with a few parts in the weekend?

Edit: You dumb fuck.

Double edit: Do you want to go for an airhead ride sometime - maybe get kokopelli over to remind him what humans look like.

Double quote,

yeah, should have it buttoned up tomorrow night so will be great to go for a hoon, errr pootle.
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Old 03-11-2014, 01:04 AM   #105
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Originally Posted by Padmei View Post
Ummm don;t know if I've offered help before but I can come over with a few parts in the weekend?

Edit: You dumb fuck.

Double edit: Do you want to go for an airhead ride sometime - maybe get kokopelli over to remind him what humans look like.
I am keen, but the weekend after this weekend would better.

Once you got your bike sorted, it should be easy to keep running.
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