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Old 09-04-2005, 04:42 PM   #1
Pantah OP
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Coast/Coast east..The Canyons!!!!

I've just completed my return leg of my coast/coast ride from Boston. I posted my trip west a few weeks ago, which was along a northern plains route. As Seger says..."Took a bead on the Northern Plains and rolled that power on..."

My return was solo and along a southern route. In fact, I got most of my canyon route ideas from a trip posted by Elefant900 last year. His trip and pics caused me to go out and buy a big D/S bike and see some of this stuff for myself. Thank you Elefant900 Rad!!!

Also thanks to Munroe Motors East Bay (Duc/KTM). They made sure my 950 was freshened for the return and even fitted her with new shoes. I selected Munroe because I knew they do a great job with Ducati race bikes and field a top racer by the name of Eric Gulbransen, who I watched for many seasons at Loudon. I figured they'd do me the job right and for sure they did! They are located right off I-580 at the E.14th offramp in San Leandro. Munroe is my West Coast team now, to go along with Cliff's Cycles outside of Boston. Both take pride in their KTM work.

My route took me past Las Vegas to St. George, UT. From there I took forest service roads through Mt. Trumbull to camp on the rim of the Grand Canyon at Toroweap. Then northeast to catch pavement at Hwy 389A near Fredonia. That section was very remote and was about 150 miles, so I took xtra gas. I recco this leg to anybody, but stop and get updates at the BLM office in St. George before you jump off. They are very helpful. The biggie is rain, and they can tell you where you'll hit trouble. The first leg:

I needed a fuel canister for my new Jetboil so I stopped at a lil' joint in Vegas I spied along I-15:
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

They had a few nice fishing rods too...
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

Well I was good to go with my $4 purchase and set off for St. George.
About 20 minutes after jumping off the Interstate, she was lookin' mighty fast:
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

And lonely too...
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

The vista was uplifting....but still:
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

And I ran across some broken dreams that became common on this trip...Long dead corrals:
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

Things then started to get interesting; a sweet little pass of switchbacks:
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

And a stop at the Mt. Trumbull School House:
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

Mt. Trumbull park turned out to be in the pines. Very nice and I thought about camping there since I'd been on the road since Bakersfield!..
but no...The Ranger sed I had to make Toroweap!...no rest yet.
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

Then it opened up again and I ran into decisions:
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

Mighty Lonely for a pilgrim from Boston...
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo


Only a little worried...

pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

Gettin' a lil' thinner doncha' think?
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

And thinner...
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

OMG!!!! I'm here!
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

Oh... It's the perfect place for Rita Tea (right on the freaking edge!):
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

And back up the path a few yards to make camp (I wonder what kinda bugs?...ahhh what's a scorpion or two when you got all this!!!):
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

This was a great day for me. The path wasn't that challenging and I reccommend it for anybody on a motorcycle who isn't worried about a little scuffing or rock chipping. But it could be a very dangerous place to get stuck in so check with those Rangers before jumping in! You'll need BLM maps (or AAA "Indian Country"). Obviously you need lots of water and don't count on seeing a passer-bye for a day or two. I saw none until I got near the ranger station at Toroweap. That's 60 miles!

More to follow.

Thanks again Elefant900. -Pantah
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Pantah screwed with this post 09-05-2005 at 01:11 PM
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Old 09-04-2005, 06:33 PM   #2
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Nice picks and great campsite
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Old 09-04-2005, 07:08 PM   #3
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wow... that is some remote/peaceful place. glad you found it
can't wait to hear more.... being from boston, originally myself.... seems a long way from faneuil hall, doesn't it?

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Old 09-04-2005, 07:48 PM   #4
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Yep, you made the right decisions.
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Old 09-05-2005, 06:01 AM   #5
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Woke up at dawn and packed while in the glow of sunrise. I pointed 'Ole Black north and retraced my ride a few miles until I found the road to Fredonia just past the Ranger station. I followed that for 50 or 60 miles until I hit pavement in the Paiute reservation (Hwy 389). I rode that east until my next jump off at House Rock.
The road out:
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo
Heading norh and west, looking across a plain:
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

Finally the highway. I was sort of expecting a little reception...maybe a McDonalds?..
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

My fuel light came on about 10 miles from the end, which made it about 140 miles. I was wondering how far I'd get running the lower gears. Normally I get 155 miles on Frwy when loaded like this.

I got gas at Fredonia and never needed the xtra fuel. Heading east on 89A, I went over an Alpine pass near Jacob Lake. There were beautiful vista's where you could see the ''staircases" of the Escalante off to the north. Temps were pleasant. I expected to get gas at House Rock because I'd be taking two lengthy dirt roads north in succession. But House Rock was only a house and a path north! I continued east on 89A in search of fuel and breakfast.
89A and the Vermillian Cliffs:
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

18 miles past my House Rock jump off, I spied Gas!
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

And Food!
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

And more Vermillian:
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

The place was named "Cliff Dwellers", and no there are no ruins there. It is a very neat little fly fishing spot, though, and the gas station is really their pro shop. I had a tasty enchelada plate.

Fully fueled and fed, I head 'Ole Black back to House Rock and paused at the BLM road gate. My path would take me through that notch yonder. I wonder what it's like out there?
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

And I bumped into more broken dreams...I wonder who these people were, and why way out here?
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

The chimney:
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

Time to move on down the road:
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

Street Signs!!! This aint' so bad!!!...more then I can say for Boston...
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

I emerged at Hwy 89 just west of the Ranger station. I rode east on it past the Ranger station until I found Cottonwood Creek. I knew from this forum there was a nice dirt road that went north through Kodachrome Basin, and Grosvenor Arch. It looked about 50-60 miles worth by the time it comes out near the town of Cannonville, UT. Like the previous road, it is a good path, but it crosses many washes and the earth is changeable due to weather. For me the Cottonwood road was decieving and I learned a lot about my motorcycle and how long lost my off-road skills really were.

At first the road is beautiful and wide freaking open!
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

and fast...very fast...as fast as you want...
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

But then she starts to narrow up as the road finds it's natural path along the creek:
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

Thru here I was cooking along and rounded a turn around 50mph. It was downhill decreasing radius and off camber. The front took off on me and I rode her like a bullrider (feet flying) until I got her woa'd up at the outside edge and caught my breath....WTF!!! Did I get a flat? Nope...sand... From here on the road was changeable from hardpack to a few inches of sand over the top and filling the ruts. I learned to start reading the surface...

She tightened up...
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

And my very favorite image of the trip. If this isn't Kodachrome, I dunno what is!
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

And finally I came upon the Arch. They built little picnic tables there and it was only a few short miles from Cannonville. I figured the road out would be pretty much a freeway from there....wrong!!! ....rain...mud...creek crossings...how'd a pilgrim from Boston get himself here anyway?...

The Arch and Tea Time:
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

and as I was doing this, one stinkin' rain cloud flew over and dumped its load...no biggie right? I mean I usta' love the mud...

This time I was riding along about 30mph and I started losing the front again. WTF!!! I slowed to a stop and put my foot down and almost went over right there. The mud was like grease and my footing was barely enough to hold her up. So I paddled and slipped the clutch over to the edge to the soft stuff....traction!!! Yohooo!! And off I went scouting the surface to keep off the greasy hardpack. Then I came upon the wash:
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

What to do what to do?...
So I removed the panniers and walked them across. In so doing, I found a little gravel bottom that I thought would hold the bike. The trick was to hit that crossing with the front strait and keep the momentum up the other side. The other side was steep but fortunately fairly untouched so it had traction.

pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

Safe on the other side, and repacked for the exit...whew!!!
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

And looking down the road to Cannonville and my KOA.
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

It was a really good day, and I learned a lot. It would serve me well in the sands of Monument valley further down the road...

Meanwhile, I never wanted a shower so bad in my life. KOA was looking like long lost home to me.

More later, -P
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"There I was..." -Griffin Niner Three Hotel
"One day closer to a parade..." Jonny Gomes, spring training 2013

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Old 09-05-2005, 02:51 PM   #6
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Continued...

After a refreshing KOA night, I took O'le Black and scrubbed her up too. She seemed a little snappier after, and I rolled her into Bryce Canyon for a peek. I have seen many pics of Bryce, but it was better then I expected. I was suprised to find it heavily wooded and with laced with high mountain meadows. Pics tell it best:

pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

The Ampitheater:
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

Then I rode east on Hwy 12. This was one of the best touring roads I've ever encountered. It had it all and the scenery was unbelievable. My goal was Boulder, UT, where I planned to take the "Bull Road" to Bull Frog Landing on Lake Powell. This was to be a biggie for me of some 60 miles dirt and a couple passes. My worry was that the Bull Road got soaked by a string of overnight storms that made it impassable at Bull Frog Creek. That would mean a 4 hour backtrack and another 4 hours the paved way around... But that was hours away yet...

Hwy 12:
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

Hwy 12 running atop a razorback ridge:
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

As I feared, the Bull Road was fooded and I was advised to continue on 12 and make the long route to Bull Frog Landing for the ferry. I'd make the 5:30 if I didn't dawdle too much.

Happy Surpise! The road bumped into Capitol Reef National Park:
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

And even writings from the ancients:
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

And I made my way to Rt. 95 and then south on Rt. 276 to Lake Powell:
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

and the ferry:
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

The other side was Hall's Crossing. I continued on 276, now well behind schedule. I had hoped to make Canyon De Chelly for the night. But now the goal was just to make Mexican Hat by dark.

Out of Lake Powell, I was smart enough to refuel at the marina. I did not see another gas station for 100 miles. Mind you, this is Navajo country and unsettled for the most part.

pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

Didn't see but about 4 cars before dark either. It was sort of spooky if I thought about it. But I didn't much:
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

'Bout 60 miles later I bumped into Bridges National Monument. But it was nearly dusk and I could only get a couple pics. The sun was too low and I needed to hike down into the crevass to get a better pic:
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

Finally, I jumped back on the road makin' for Mexican Hat on old hwy 261 south. It was dusk and I was runnin' atop a plateau at about 80. After a half hour of this, I see signs saying to slow....like 8mph slow. I mean eight!!? Well it got my attention and I slowed to about 30. They forgot to mention the pavement ended and so did the plateau!!!

Here's what it looks like at the end of one of those plateau things: Sheesh...
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo
(Note: It's a good thing we don't have these plateau jobs in New England. We're better off with stuff like Plymouth Rock and Fanieul Hall...)

The suset from the plateau looking south towards Mexican Hat...
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

It was a spectacular and fun ride down the face of that cliff of some 1500 feet. I recco it to all. At the bottom is an incredible place called the Valley of the God's. And it seemed that way. The scale of it all!!!

And 15 miles further I was in Mexican Hat. I stayed at a rough looking motel/cowboy bar called the Mexican Hat Lodge. 3 generations ran it. The BBQ was a goin' under a tin roof and that's where I learned burning Juniper smelled like dinner. I had the very best steak I've ever had. Better 'n Morton's. Better 'n Sparks too. The following morn I took some pics of the place. It was different without all the hubbub, but it was cool just the same. It remoinded me of old Mexico:

pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo
And yes that is a dirt floor. The place was hoppin' and the food and good company was excellent. The room wasn't bad either. $60 and it was a gift at that. Not to mention it was on the edge of my next destination; MONUMENT VALLEY . MV to come -Pantah
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Straight ahead and faster -Bo Weaver 1970
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"One day closer to a parade..." Jonny Gomes, spring training 2013

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Old 09-05-2005, 04:20 PM   #7
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I am really impressed by your solo journey across the vast areas of emptyness. It must feel kind of lonely out there at times, but I am sure very inspiring and motivational at the same time. The rugged individualism displayed is in many ways a lost trait, thats what I love about this site.

Thanks for sharing your journey. I started riding dirt bikes two years ago at the age of 41 and jumped into enduros and dual sport rides on the east coast. Two stroke trail ride type dual sports. Your story is really inspiring me to make the move up to a "real" dual sport bike and head west.
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Old 09-05-2005, 08:58 PM   #8
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Great trip. I did a coast to coast in early August (report to follow) and find that I followed parts of your route. Utah is stunning.
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Old 09-06-2005, 04:01 AM   #9
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Empty spaces

Coaster - Thanks guy. Some of my favirite motorcycle times were running enduros, hare scrambles and such. My big KTM trips recapture a bit of that fun, and I can still do it.

Strommer - I agree with you that southern Utah is special. And their roads are so perfect for motoring! I didn't see hardly any motorcyclists though. In fact I didn't see much traffic at all. How about you? If you were early August, there should have been tourist traffic, no?

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Old 09-06-2005, 01:44 PM   #10
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Continued: Monument Valley

Monument Valley was spectacular as you might imagine. It is all Navajo land and I was sort of surprised to see they actually live in and about the park. This was true at Canyon De Chelly as well.

MV is some 20 miles outside Mexican Hat. Actually, it is such a big area, it is a misnomer to locate it too narrowly. I arrived early morning and took the park trail thru the valley. It was a 16 mile loop of red dirt and sand. I imagine it impassable if too wet, and the sand was a challenge in spots. There were some rutted sections too. But it was very fun, and the only way to see Monument Valley. The pics:

The approach:
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

Navajo hut:
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

posing:
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

on the park road:
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

Tea break:
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

The road out:
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

Feed pen for the 'Ole girl:
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

Canyon De Chelly and Taos is next up, but must upload to smugmug to post. Just a few more pics and we're done.

-P
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Old 09-07-2005, 06:55 AM   #11
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Nearing end of post

\After Monument Valley, I headed south east to Canyon De Chelly. I was surprised to see that is is basically a gorge carved into high desert plain. The gorge served as a fortress for centuries of pueblo dwellers and eventually the Navajo. It is most famous for its 4 cliff dwellings. The most notable is the "white House":

pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

I have a few pics of Taos I'll post as soon as I can get the Smugmug to take them. After Toas, I went over the last pass due east, following the Santa Fe Trail to Dodge City. After that it was all superslab with nothing to post.

-p

You can see the farmlands still being cultivated along the floor of the gorge in the shot below:
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

And another cliff house:
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

And I bought a little piece of pottery too:
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

From the park, I headed due east out the back route and over a specatular pass on Navajo rt. 13. Atthe top I spied Shiprock. The road took me right past to and thru Farmington:
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

Shiprock in the distance?
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

and up close:
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

And over another pass to Taos. This one was over 10k feet and laced with cattle ranches:


pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

And down to a plain at 6700 feet, where Taos sits on the Santa Fe Trail

pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

I have a couple of Taos I'll post when I can get my smugmug working. After Taos, it was one more 10k foot pass east along the Santa Fe Trail, and down thru Cimmarron and across the plains to Dodge City. After Dodge it was all interstate to Boston. -p
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Old 09-07-2005, 04:09 PM   #12
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Last entry

Pics of Taos:

The Kit Carson home-
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

very old...
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

and I bumped into the very first Viet Nam Memorial atop the pass east of Taos in a town called Angel Fire. It was started by a country doctor named Westphall who lost his son. It was most eloquent so I'll post a different thread on it, but here is a couple pics. It was very moving:

pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

and finally Cimmaron and the plains east along the Santa Fe Trail:
pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

pantah > Trip east from MotoGP photo

The Freaking END!!!

I hope those of you who stuck thru this enjoed it. It was a trip of a lifetime for be with its variety and all. I expect to make many more and I hope you do too. You owe it to yourself to make the time to see these big spaces first hand.

Thanks for viewing; Pantah
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Old 09-07-2005, 04:42 PM   #13
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Wo!

Great report! You've officially killed my motivation to stay at work for the remainder of the afternoon.
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Old 09-07-2005, 09:04 PM   #14
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Ride the moon !

``Strommer - I agree with you that southern Utah is special. And their roads are so perfect for motoring! I didn't see hardly any motorcyclists though. In fact I didn't see much traffic at all. How about you? If you were early August, there should have been tourist traffic, no? ``


Pantah,

You are right about expecting tourist traffic in August in a region as visually stunning as this. My buddy and I rode 95 to Hanksville, 24 to Torrey and 12 to Cannonville (where we stayed for the night). This has to be one of the best rides of my life and I will let your photos speak for me but... I don’t understand why there was nobody out there. We saw barely any traffic of any kind. In fact on 95 we probably saw more bicycles than cars. It was a team of maybe 25-30 young women split up in groups of 3 - 4 with a couple of coaches with them. Further on we saw some tourists, mostly Italian and Germans. I would have been happy with 10 times the volume of traffic we encountered and still considered it a good ride. If one likes wide open spaces and at times moonlike landscape for miles and miles - this is it. I thought it strange that no one was out there but perhaps people (hardly anyone on this site) think it is just an unending stretch of hot tarmac through barren land?



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