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Old 02-27-2014, 07:19 PM   #16
toates89 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Soldier311 View Post
On a DR350? Will they work without purchasing longer cables?
I am wondering the same thing.
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Old 02-27-2014, 07:23 PM   #17
toates89 OP
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I am looking at the kx high bend for the dr350

KX High Bend 31.50" 4.25" 3.07"
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Old 02-27-2014, 10:52 PM   #18
PalePhase
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I'm not a dirt rider but my Interceptor came with Gen-Mar risers, and in 3 1/2 years of riding it, I have had no problem with it. My mechanic favors Heli-bars since they preserve the original steering geometry, and he thinks my VFR is a little twitchy -- not that I've noticed, but I don't ride too aggressively (just not a smart thing when you're riding through a herd of Expeditions, Tahoes, and Sequoias.
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Old 03-02-2014, 10:08 AM   #19
FloorPoor
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ATV Hi bars(moose brand) on my KLR did wonders for riding comfort, and I only paid $25 for them. For my commuting and long highway sections I adjust them back for an easy, comfortable reach, and when I get to the rough stuff it only takes about 30 seconds to adjust them forward and up for very comfortable stand up riding. I played around with adjustments and found the positions that are most comfortable, then marked the bars so there is no guess work when moving them back and forth. I would recommend replacing the stock bar bolts with high strength stainless steel bolts. Then they wont break, rust, or strip out easily.

One other mod that made stand up riding much better was some wider foot pegs.
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Old 03-02-2014, 04:28 PM   #20
sperz1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Soldier311 View Post
On a DR350? Will they work without purchasing longer cables?

Sorry for the late reply. Yes, they work with the stock cables. No longer cables required!
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Old 03-06-2014, 07:12 AM   #21
buls4evr
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The biggest problem with risers is the very long bolts required. When coupled with very strong bars, and a crash, the force transmitted through those strong bars can break a bolt(s) off or worse, trash the upper t-clamp . A good case for cheaper, more bendable handlebars. You can get home with bent bars.... not so great if the bars are no longer attached to the upper T-clamp. You think new bars are expensive, try buying a new upper T-clamp!
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Old 03-06-2014, 07:18 AM   #22
James Adams
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buls4evr View Post
The biggest problem with risers is the very long bolts required.
Not all risers work this way.
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Old 03-06-2014, 07:55 AM   #23
slartidbartfast
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buls4evr View Post
The biggest problem with risers is the very long bolts required. When coupled with very strong bars, and a crash, the force transmitted through those strong bars can break a bolt(s) off or worse, trash the upper t-clamp . A good case for cheaper, more bendable handlebars. You can get home with bent bars.... not so great if the bars are no longer attached to the upper T-clamp. You think new bars are expensive, try buying a new upper T-clamp!
Whether you raise the bars using risers or taller bars, if you raise them the same amount, the moment from the end of the bars to the clamp will be increased the same. The only way you're going to break something is if it was too weak to begin with or overtightened. I guess if you have to overtighten bar risers because the clamp is not as effective that could contribute but that's a flaw in the clamp, not an intrinsic result of using a bar riser.
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Old 03-07-2014, 06:14 AM   #24
buls4evr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slartidbartfast View Post
Whether you raise the bars using risers or taller bars, if you raise them the same amount, the moment from the end of the bars to the clamp will be increased the same. The only way you're going to break something is if it was too weak to begin with or overtightened. I guess if you have to overtighten bar risers because the clamp is not as effective that could contribute but that's a flaw in the clamp, not an intrinsic result of using a bar riser.
My point here is that a combination of a very strong bar and risers causes a bigger twist at the point of mounting than the T-clamp was designed for. In most cases the 4 bolts securing the bar are pretty close together. You could even make the case that the increased leverage caused by stronger bars without risers has that same effect. We are talking about twisting leverage in 2 directions when you fall, up and back. A lot of force is transmitted to those 4 small bolts. They bear most of the brunt of that twist as well as what they bolt into.
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Old 03-11-2014, 08:48 AM   #25
James Adams
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buls4evr View Post
My point here is that a combination of a very strong bar and risers causes a bigger twist at the point of mounting than the T-clamp was designed for. In most cases the 4 bolts securing the bar are pretty close together. You could even make the case that the increased leverage caused by stronger bars without risers has that same effect. We are talking about twisting leverage in 2 directions when you fall, up and back. A lot of force is transmitted to those 4 small bolts. They bear most of the brunt of that twist as well as what they bolt into.
It seems like breaking the bolts in a crash would be preferable to breaking anything else, as the bolts are easily replaceable.
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Old 03-12-2014, 08:37 AM   #26
Thanantos
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sperz1 View Post
I have no experience in this.....

But, ATV Hi bend bars on the DR are the Bees Knees!
Yup, that's what I did on my DR350. Looks great, functions well and was only $50.



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