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Old 03-26-2014, 06:47 AM   #46
liviob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cele0001 View Post
I also don't know the the hub mounting holes positioning and size.
Bolt layout is different.
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Old 03-26-2014, 02:05 PM   #47
Dan Căta
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I would like to see where this is going. It sounds promising

Dan.
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Old 03-26-2014, 03:32 PM   #48
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I am also thinking about offering only the spacer without the rivets for the people that want to bolt it instead of riveting (or have somebody else rivet it for them, at a reduced cost). I haven't worked the price yet but the spacer only would be under $90. I have tested it in my bike like this. I rode it for 500 miles and checked, everything was OK. I am currently doing the same test with rivets.

Once the parts are done in about a week or so those that want just the spacer will be able to buy one. Rivet option will come later and will include tools needed to complete the task. I am hoping about 3 weeks behind the parts. Price will have to be higher but I am doing my best to design correct tools at the right price.
I would appreciate those that are interested to check in on this board so I can start the count. Please keep in mind that since I don't require prepayment parts will go to whoever raises their hand first.
I will keep a count on this board for people that expressed interest.
Thank you
Esmir

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WORN INPUT SPLINES CLUTCH HUB SPACER R1150XX
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=964425
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Old 03-28-2014, 05:12 AM   #49
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Old 03-28-2014, 03:02 PM   #50
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Shoulders would be best. I used m5 12.9 grade with lock washers and red locktite, non shouldered. I will post a picture

Here is the bolt setup I used. I dont see it making problems, I would use nylock nuts instead of lockwashers.
The goo is locktite.

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http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=964425

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Old 03-28-2014, 03:03 PM   #51
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This is why I want to do the rivets, cuts down on paranoia
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Old 03-28-2014, 03:26 PM   #52
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Spacers are here !!!!!

Just in time for the weekend.



I have to figure out some stuff but if you looking to buy just the spacer and bolt it up yourself please let me know now.

Price for just the spacer is $85 US (including free shipping within US)


Let me know.
Esmir
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Old 03-28-2014, 03:52 PM   #53
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Esmir, I'm interested. Bolts would do fine for me.
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Old 03-28-2014, 03:55 PM   #54
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Ok. I will get back regarding payment. It would be PayPal. I am not shipping anything before Monday anyway
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Old 03-28-2014, 03:56 PM   #55
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You have to figure out your own bolts. They are not included
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Old 03-28-2014, 05:12 PM   #56
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Old 03-28-2014, 05:22 PM   #57
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Clutch Spacer

I'm in as well.

Will wait for your reply c/w paypal payment requirements.

Ron
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Old 03-28-2014, 06:22 PM   #58
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I am hoping

that somebody has used clutch that they can experiment on.

First step is to grind the rivet heads off from this side. Use dremmel or small grinder and be carefull. Try not to damage the backing plate. Some scratches are OK but don't be a butcher. Rivets in the picture are not the original ones, the originals are flat, don't be confused.




Once you are done grinding the head use a drift or other suitable tool to knock the rivets out. I used the press but you should be able to do it with hammer and drift. You should support it from the back to avoid bending the plate. Use a cylinder that will fit around the rivet. Size of drift is 3/16 but 3/16 bolt will also do. You should end up with 8 of these.




Then you can separate the clutch into three parts: backing plate, clutch plate, and hub.
I would appreciate if one of the people that expressed interest can open a thread regarding this process to make it easier for others. Feel free to contact me if you are confused.

Then you can install the spacer between the hub and the clutch plate. It should look like this.



Here it is from the backside with the bolts installed.



Bolts I used are M5 x 20mm. This is what they look like when they are in.



As you can see there is not a lot of space for the nuts so make sure you dont select ones that are overly wide (with built in washers). As I said nylocks would be the best and still locktite.
Keep me posted and I will do the same.
Thank you
Esmir
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Old 03-28-2014, 07:24 PM   #59
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To me, the best kind of trips are the ones you planned on the way, allowed yourself to change, and maybe didn't end up where you expected. Klay

I tell it what it wants to hear, and it does what I want it to do. I made that Motronic my bitch. Poolside


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Old 03-29-2014, 08:49 AM   #60
Unca Fud
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Just an antique engineer's fatigue opinion -

Rivets are not that necessary. They are very likely used on the OEM parts because they are cheaper and quicker to buy and install.

Use the 5 mm sockethead capscrews without any lockwashers or nylock nuts. Torque the bolts to yield & preferably use new ones every time. Preferably use good nuts with anti seize under the friction surface only.

This area runs warm so nylock nuts or locktite won't help. Don't use lockwashers in fatigue on general principle. Remember the U-joint experiences on airheads?

Edit:
And - include a spare bolt & nut for the user to learn how to break.......

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