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Old 04-26-2014, 06:26 PM   #31
FJ_Kevin OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cnybetass View Post
Kevin,I am really enjoying all the old pics and stuff I have much husky memorbila in my man cave.

I have all the husky tools and some good shop manuals if you need any imfo let me no.

Yes the husky shop manual says bike should be in fourth gear but if yours is shifting right it must be ok.

Years ago we tore a motor down Saturday nite at a two day we forgot the gear thing and stayed up most of nite redoing motor.

I am sure I have a base gasket for that 390.

Also have the shop manual for the 430.On this bike it is a good idea to see if the primary kick gear has been upgraded.The early bikes cracked the case where the shaft and gear rode in case.

I have a pretty good memory of stuff so just ask if I can help.

My 430 cr is now in Spain being raced regurly.
JR

Well JR, it looks like I did screw this up!

Although I have ridden the bike twice in the back yard, and it seemed to shift fine, it turns out that I never put it into 6th gear.

This afternoon I tried to shift it through all the gears like I thought I had before and found that once I put it in 6th gear it was not possible to shift it out of 6th. It is stuck in 6th and after studying the manuals I can see it is going to stay that way until I split the cases again to correct it.

And I can't blame it on the Haynes manual either! Yes it says to put it in 3rd gear but then two paragraphs further down it talks about the late six speeds having to be in 4th before timing the selector quadrant. I should have kept reading!

**** I hope no one else reading this thread makes the mistake I did *****
*
* Transmission must be in 4th gear when setting the selector gear timing!
*
************************************************** **********

It's not so bad though as the bike actually ran quite strongly and started easy. So I will have to pull the motor, the flywheel and the right center case back off. Seems I should be able to leave the left side of the motor pretty much undisturbed.

JR, I hope you will continue to check in from time to time to keep me on the right path. And I have not found a cr430 manual on line yet so if you want to part with yours I may be interested. The motor for that one is on the bench. Let me know.

Funny how your 430 is in Spain... must be some kind of backstory there.

I also noticed you are from the NY area. We used to hit some of the tracks up there in the late 70's. Ellenville, Ace and Claverack come to mind. We raced mostly in the LI sand so had a tough time on that upstate hard pack. Can't remember which track was which as it was so long ago. My dad let me & my buddies take his van and 3 bike trailer when I was 16 yo. We would be gone the whole weekend. It was a great time!

I will put the info about inserting pictures in my next reply.





How about this one? Mickey Kessler, King of Englishtown!



Kevin
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FJ_Kevin screwed with this post 04-26-2014 at 07:00 PM
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Old 04-27-2014, 04:38 PM   #32
cnybetass
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Kevin

That does suck but you just did it once so will be a snap.
The 430 manual is just supplement to the workshop manual.
Will see how many pages and can scan for you.
It mainly covers the primary kick setup ?

JR
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Old 05-03-2014, 06:17 PM   #33
FJ_Kevin OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cnybetass View Post
Kevin

That does suck but you just did it once so will be a snap.
The 430 manual is just supplement to the workshop manual.
Will see how many pages and can scan for you.
It mainly covers the primary kick setup ?

JR
JR,

I went back to see what went wrong when you tried to post your picture. I am assuming you used the "Insert Image" icon to insert the picture when posting.

Anyway, it seems the link you inserted was this...

http://%3ca%20href=http//s268.photob...rget=_blank%3E[IMG]http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj31/jreilly_photos/husky001.jpg

When I did it I only pasted in the last part of the link as follows,

http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/j...s/husky001.jpg

This is the DIRECT Link provided on your photobucket page.

Here is another one of your Husky.



Again, I got this link by clicking on the DIRECT link box on your photobucket. Then I pasted it into the "insert picture" icon text box (the icon is the yellow box with a sun in upper right corner).

Feel free to ask more if this is not clear.

Kevin
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Old 05-03-2014, 07:14 PM   #34
FJ_Kevin OP
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Since it will be at least another week or two before I can get back to the motor, I thought I would go ahead and post up some of the other work that has been done.

So this post will be concerned with repairing the seat. You can see cover has a nice rip about half way down. What you can't see is the foam was rather hard and was missing a few small chunks from it.



I decided I would go ahead and order a new foam and cover. I buy fairly frequently from DC Plastics and saw they carried both the foam and the cover.

However, the seat cover didn't have the Husky "H" on the back so I decided to get that from http://www.husqvarna-parts.com/catal...40/7070646.htm

Haha, when their cover arrive it had the "H" but was smooth, without the cross stitching pattern like the original, oh well!

And when the seat foam arrived from DC, it was a different shape!

Here is the original foam where it meets the tank,



Here is the new foam... you can see the gap is much larger.



Here are the foams together.



It turns out that there is quite a bit of confusion about Husky seats! The reason is that Husky seems to have used two different styles. These styles can be identified by the color of the seat pan.

My bike has the silver pan. There is also a seat with a black pan. DC plastics sent me a foam for the black pan which they thought was correct for 1978. They exchanged the "78" foam for a "79" foam which was correct for my silver pan. But the truth is '78's could have had either pan.

Husqvarna-parts only offered the cover for the silver pan seat which I am happy to say fit perfectly.





So again, it seems if your Husky falls between ~1975 to 1979 the seats can have black or silver pans.

I am guessing the black pan is used for non-cr models as they have larger fuel tanks and that is why the tank/seat gap is larger when the black pan foam is placed on a CR with the small tank.

So here is what you do if ordering from DC plastics...

For the silver pan, you have to order the '79 foam and cover.

For the black pan, your have to get the '75-'78 foam and cover.

Whew!





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Old 05-03-2014, 08:03 PM   #35
Scootern29
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The seat pans are quite "special" aren't they!
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Old 05-08-2014, 09:27 PM   #36
Huskydoggg
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Kevin,
Nice work on the Husky and very thorough documentation. I always forget to take pictures.
I have a good selection of new and used Husky parts if you need. Also manuals, service bulletins and such. If you are rebuilding that 430, there are a couple common problem areas to check and some easy modifications that wake up the 430's power.
Steve
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Old 05-10-2014, 05:01 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scootern29 View Post
The seat pans are quite "special" aren't they!
Haha, yes & I am not finding out the 1980 bikes have a "1 year only" seat. The '81 on seat does not fit, nor does the '79 seat!

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Old 05-10-2014, 05:23 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by Huskydoggg View Post
Kevin,
Nice work on the Husky and very thorough documentation. I always forget to take pictures.
I have a good selection of new and used Husky parts if you need. Also manuals, service bulletins and such. If you are rebuilding that 430, there are a couple common problem areas to check and some easy modifications that wake up the 430's power.
Steve
Huskydoggg.com

Hi Steve!

I am very pleased to see you have found this thread!

For those who do not know, Steve is a real Husky expert, a racer and a highly respected supplier of vintage Husky parts. I found out about the huskydogg (see Huskydoggg.com) from members of the vintage Husqvarna group where he came very highly recommended.

Steve not only supplied me with crank bearings, seals, wrist pin etc, but also gave me a great deal on a very nice used crank for which I am very grateful.

All the parts Steve sent me were exactly right and arrived quickly. Not only that, he included a photo copy of a Dirt Bike test of my bike!

Steve... I hope you will continue to check up on me here as I work through all these projects. Any insights you can provide along the way would be most welcome!




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FJ_Kevin screwed with this post 05-10-2014 at 07:08 PM
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Old 05-10-2014, 07:02 PM   #39
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So I've been busy as heck but since it rained today I used that as an excuse to pull the stuck in 6th gear motor back out of the Husky.

Here it is in the shop floor. When I 1st put it together I stripped the paint off the cases and never got around to repaint them.



I think I would like to paint the motor this time around so would be interested in getting recommendations. I was thinking of engine or VHT paint from the local auto parts store. Or maybe brake caliper paint?

I pulled the top end off right there on the floor to make the lift to the bench a little easer on my tricky back. This motor wasn't together for very long so my home made base gasket was still intact after pulling the cylinder off. I am going to reuse it.



While I am not thrilled with splitting the cases a 2nd time, the up side is I get a chance to take the pictures I missed the 1st time around. And there will be less to disassemble as I the seals and bearings have already been replaced.

So all to do on the ignition side is to remove the ignition flywheel and the counter shaft sprocket. I now have this funky Husky flywheel holder tool that make the job a little easier ($10.50 on ebay). Those Swedish winters must be pretty long!

OK, I've mentioned this before but this is important, that flywheel nut on the crank is left hand thread !



The puller tool is a normal right hand thread. As it wasn't on there too long, it too came off easy .



Since I had already gone through the timing procedure (I'll show that later) and was happy with how the bike ran, and I had already replaced the crank seal underneath, I decided there was no need to remove the stator assembly.

BTW, there is are no crank case screws underneath the stator either, another important point that allows for this time saving measure !




The sprocket uses a quick release snap ring to hold it in place. Here is the sprocket and the spacer that goes between the sprocket and the countershaft bearing. That countershaft seal is new so no need to remove anything further here.



So with the ignition side about ready to go we spin it around to remove the clutch cover.

Next I remove the shift lever and I cleverly replace the 6mm bolt so as not to lose it. About this time I realize that there was no need to remove this as the shift mechanism it is attached to stays with the cover. Concentrate Kevin!!!



The clutch side is now exposed! Last time I split the cases the shift shaft (the one with the two flats) pulled through with the ignition side case. This time I put a clamp on the flats so it stays in the left side case. This keeps the selector gear and shift paw mechanism in place and will allow me to get a photo of my screw up once the cases are split!




This time we get to see the ebay Husky case splitter in action. The center case screws are used to attach the puller plate to the holes normally used for the ignition cover.





One again things came apart easy. In addition to the puller, I used a rubber mallet to occasionally tap the counter shaft so as to avoid any binding as it all came apart.

I was also careful to pry the center case gasket loose with a razor blade so I could reuse this too.

Here it is, stuck in 6th gear as shown by the position of the stopper in the shift drum. This all happened because (like a dufus) I did not have the selector gear timed properly with the shift drum.

And again, there's that beauty of a crankshaft from the Huskydoggg!







The next close up photo shows the consequence of mistiming the gear. The point of the gear selector paw (triangle in shape) must be able to drop in between two gear teeth on the selector gear when the shift shaft rotates to make a gear change.

In this case I have assembled the selector gear in the wrong position. The problem is that the selector gear only has teeth partially around it's circumference. In 6th gear it got into a position where it the selector gear rotated past the last tooth and positioned the "rocker paw" such that it could not rock into a slot between two adjacent teeth. Instead it is locked against the outside (and toothless) part of the selector gear.

Himmm, I'm not even sure I can follow that explanation. The more direct version is ...I f'ed it up !




More to come...






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Old 05-14-2014, 09:00 AM   #40
GoThere@50
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Talking Good Stuff!

Kevin, Great thread! I like the way you approached this as you fully committed up front and jumped in with both feet. Your presentation is enhanced by the vintage photos, nice touch, especially for old guys like me who were involved when the Husky's were current state of the art. The twin shock air cooled Husqvarna's IMHO are the Gold Standard of the era even though they would never win a specification sheet comparison against their competitors and weren't always the fastest offering in each class. Their combination of simple design, leading edge metallurgy, rich racing heritage and classic good looks is second to none. I have been contemplating a vintage Husqvarna restoration for several years now, watching candidates come and go on the listings and visiting the dedicated Husqvarna sites. This thread gives me an idea of what I would be in for. I'm looking foreword to reading about their completion and re-introduction to the track! Hopefully you will offer your riding impressions as well. Good work!
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Old 05-14-2014, 08:57 PM   #41
FJ_Kevin OP
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Originally Posted by GoThere@50 View Post
Kevin, Great thread! I like the way you approached this as you fully committed up front and jumped in with both feet. Your presentation is enhanced by the vintage photos, nice touch, especially for old guys like me who were involved when the Husky's were current state of the art. The twin shock air cooled Husqvarna's IMHO are the Gold Standard of the era even though they would never win a specification sheet comparison against their competitors and weren't always the fastest offering in each class. Their combination of simple design, leading edge metallurgy, rich racing heritage and classic good looks is second to none. I have been contemplating a vintage Husqvarna restoration for several years now, watching candidates come and go on the listings and visiting the dedicated Husqvarna sites. This thread gives me an idea of what I would be in for. I'm looking foreword to reading about their completion and re-introduction to the track! Hopefully you will offer your riding impressions as well. Good work!
Thanks for your kind note. I am glad you are enjoying this because I enjoy doing it!

And I am an old guy too and also have very fond memories of 70's motocross. My appreciation for Husqvarna's has been growing as of late, especially after riding a couple of them. And like you, I am drawn by the classic Husky look. Who can forget Malcolm Smith and all those Huskys from On Any Sunday?

I hope you will stick around. Although the focus to this point has been on the '78, I have made good progress on a couple of the others. There will be lot's of project photos coming on those too.

And if I can do it, so can you !

Kevin









Kevin
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Old 06-02-2014, 03:16 PM   #42
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OK, so I finally got back to this.

The last post verified the problem with the gear selector timing and why the transmission was stuck in 6th gear.

This time I am following the same procedure as before except that I am setting the shift drum into 4th gear (for 6-speed transmissions) as opposed to 3rd gear (the procedure for 5-speed gearboxes) before setting the selector gear timing.

But before I can rotate the shift drum, I have to remove the shift shaft from the selector gear as I cannot shift it as is.



Here is the shift shaft with the paw doo-hicky. Note that an oil film is helpful in keeping the paw attached to the shift shaft while re-installing.



With the shaft removed, I am now able to disengage the selector gear from the shift drum. This allows me to rotate the drum into 4th gear position.



Here is the drum in 4th,



And now I position the selector gear so that two teeth are uncovered by the drum, on top, and one tooth is uncovered on the bottom as show in the photo.



I then place the shift shaft back through the selector gear and the bore in the engine case while taking care to ensure the selector gear does not rotate and that the teeth remain in the proper position.



This time I check my work by shifting the transmission all the way to 6th gear as indicated by the drum position,



And verify that the shifting paw mechanism remains with in the span of gear teeth on the selector gear like this,



Whew!

more to come...






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My '81 YZ465 Factory Race Replica
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Old 06-03-2014, 09:09 AM   #43
FJ_Kevin OP
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With the transmission reassembled and the case halves bolted back together, the next step was to throw the top end back on and reattach the flywheel.





And here it is on the bench and all back together.



This time around I decided to pain the motor black as original. I used a dupli-color satin black high temp engine enamal. It is supposed to be gas and oil resistant. I guess we will see if it holds up OK.

The next photo shows the motor after painting and re-installation of the rear motor mounts. Those mounts have to be reattached before putting the motor back in the frame. The hole in the mount is where the swing arm bolt passes through.

Pre-1980 Yamaha's used a similar arrangement. In 1980, Yamaha did away with the bracketry for their 465's and instead passed the swing arm bolt through the engine cases.

Husqvarna followed suit soon after. While this '78 390 has the brackets, the '81 Husky 430 in my shop uses the bolt through the cases design very much like my Yamahas.



And finally, back into the frame it goes...





More to come...





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Old 06-06-2014, 05:13 PM   #44
nachtflug
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2011

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Old 06-06-2014, 05:20 PM   #45
nachtflug
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How about this one? Mickey Kessler, King of Englishtown!



Kevin
Kessler this past weekend at Unadilla Rewind VMX 2014. I tweaked it up so you could see his face.

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