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Old 06-11-2014, 08:46 AM   #16
Sumi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazybrit View Post
I assume the test procedure for the TPS on the FI bikes is similar to the carb'd bikes [in the service manual]? Check VDC as you turn throttle? If so, did these "faulty TPS"s pass or fail the test?
First of all, you don't need to insert a voltmeter into the harness, as you can read out the voltage levels with a diagnostic software. Apart from this, it's quite the same, but the KTM factory tool let's you log the TPS's (I think the 990 has a secondary TPS as well, maybe it's called a different way) values and it's easier to spot anomalies.. The TPS's I've seen actually produced a good readout when turning the throttle, but at a steady opening (or idle) they produced a couple voltage spikes now and then (sometimes 5 mins apart).
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Old 06-13-2014, 01:15 PM   #17
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Part Aquired

Received new TPS today (P/N 61041077000 THROTTLE POS. SENSOR CPL) and here is how I beleive I will procede with installation:

1. With bike cold and without starting I will R&R TPS sensor.
2. Hook bike up to TuneECU and take readings to see where new TPS values are.
3. Adjust TPS to desired voltage if out of range.
4. Complete a throttle adjustment and take readings again (previously after any test of throttle or idle speed control the TPS voltage increased)
5. If adjustment remains constant after replacement and tests I will reload maps and reset adaptation.
6. Complete 15 minute idle and then ride!

P.S. any previous test while turning the throttle showed normal results. I never tried holding a steady throttle above closed.
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Old 06-13-2014, 04:20 PM   #18
bikyto
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Fwiw, the tps values will vary (sometimes greatly) between a cold engine and a warm one.
Adjusting the tps is best on a warm engine IMO.

Good luck, you're almost there!!
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Old 06-13-2014, 04:42 PM   #19
Gustavo.Ramos
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I'm one of those who replaced the whole TB assembly, hence i may belong into the stupid group.

However... after spending hundreds of hours, yes hundreds of hours over several months taking parts out, riding with only left tank, adjusting adjusting adjusting, i gave up and f...ck this sh..t, got a set of used TB's for the price of a new TPS.

Instant fix, purred like a kitten, grunt when whacking the throttle open, and my beast was back. Later used the same TB's into another 990 with that bike's TPS.

No issue.

faulty TPS
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Old 06-18-2014, 02:45 PM   #20
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Update

Well I got the new TPS on the bike this past Saturday. I pretty much followed the steps I outlined earlier as far as installing on a cold bike. When I put the new TPS on I just tightened the adjusting screw up and then checked reading with TuneECU. It read .40v without any adjusting. I manually adjusted it to .64v and then started the bike and it idled fine at about 1440.

Shut the bike off and then for shits and grins I went to the test page and ran through the various tests from top down. When I hit the "idle speed control" test the TPS voltage immediately went to .88v. I started the bike and sure enough RPM shot to about 4k. Shut off bike and then used the "Adjust Throttle" on TuneECU. After it retracted I shut bike off and did not touch cables. When I switched back on the TPS read .68v.

At this point I just want a running bike so I reloaded the map and then reset the adaptation and let the bike run for 15 minutes. I rode the bike all weekend putting about 200 mile on it and it never died and never went into the high idle issue. About 80 of the miles was gravel back roads varying speeds etc. Cruised fine at 80 mph on blacktop 6th gear 4k. By Sunday evening I think the new TPS is doing the trick.

I commute to work on the bike if you can call it a commute as its only a mile with about 4 lights and a couple stop signs. I am thinking now that this bike just despises urban living! It hasn't been a big issue but the bike now has a less erratic idle upon start up. It'll have low idle at about 12k on initial start up and then will go to 2k for a second or two and back down to about 13k it does this a couple of times before I take off after 1 or 2 temp bars. About 3 times in the past 3 days during commute it has died coming upon traffic or stop sign. I drive the bike to work, home for lunch and back then home after work so about 6 miles a day. It has not thankfully exhibited the 3 to 4k stuck throttle. Hopefully it is just adapting to my riding??? I will probably check the TPS with TuneECU again this weekend while hot and try to adjust to maybe .70 and see how it acts. I'll report back after trying for a couple hundred more miles.

What it is still doing that it has been doing from the day I bought the bike and what began my quest to make it better, is the neutral light still just comes on when it feels like it. I have taken the switch off twice. First time I had only sanded the contacts and reinstalled. I then noticed a puddle of oil under the bike after a week of sitting. Before installing the TPS I took the switch off again and made sure I had the oring in properly and stretched out the little springs behind the plungers (?) a tad then torqued up snugly and so far no leak but still neutral light is sporadic. Thinking possibly acquiring a new switch and maybe a new clutch switch just for peace of mind.

I really would like to develop some confidence in this bike should I get the opportunity for some extended riding this summer.
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Old 06-18-2014, 09:20 PM   #21
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Clutch

When I started the bike up to ride home from work I noticed something concerning the warm up idle. When I started the bike it was out of gear but no neutral light so I had to have kickstand up and clutch pulled in. The bike was idling at about 1100. When I pulled the clutch lever in about 1/2 inch the rpm went to 2000. Let it out and back to 1100. Pull it in 1/2 inch 2000. This was with a cold bike and no neutral light but out of gear. I rode 3/4 mile to quick mart and still no neutral when out of gear. Pull in clutch 1/2 inch no change in rpm but it was idling at about 1500 rather than 1100. When I got home a few minutes later bike was idling still at 1500 out of gear and neutral light came right on when I took it out of gear.

Clutch switch??? Gear indicator switch???? Replace both????? Lever switch jump test????? Disable switch???? Oh the woes! But at least its running!!!
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Old 06-18-2014, 11:31 PM   #22
gefr
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I would suggest you try setting your TPS with warm bike.

Try 0.55, 0.60 0.65 and see where it idles better with warm motor.
Neutral sensor usually malfunctions when dirty... I don't know what happens to yours, can't help, sorry
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Old 06-19-2014, 01:53 AM   #23
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Glad you are one step closer to joy:)

IMO you should really figure out what's causing the funny neutral light behaviour, as that surely messes up the FI and can be the reason of the stalls/wandering idle. Normally, when in gear and with a closed throttle the FI will somewhat cut the fuel to achieve engine braking. So if the bike misinterprets whether it's in gear or not, if it's sensing a non-neutral signal when the bike is really in neutral (or with a pulled in clutch), it'll also cut the fuel leading to a engine stall.

If the bike is shifting 100% normally mechanically (ie. no false neutrals between gears, etc.) I'd suggest a new gear-position sensor (60011023100) probably with a new O-ring right away (0770275025). Also before purchasing the items, it would be a good idea to trace the gear-position sensors circuit back to the main harness, and then to the ECU to see if there is damaged insulation somewhere.
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Old 06-20-2014, 02:23 AM   #24
StevenD
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your commute is 1!! JUST ONE MILE and you take the bike??? Thats pure engine murder as it will never reach operating temperature..

Walk or take a bicicle!
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Old 06-20-2014, 09:46 AM   #25
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Hmmm

Quote:
Originally Posted by StevenD View Post
your commute is 1!! JUST ONE MILE and you take the bike??? Thats pure engine murder as it will never reach operating temperature.. Walk or take a bicicle!
You just may have something there! I did say that perhaps the bike doesn't like its urban environment!! I do let it warm up to two bars before leaving and its at 4 before reaching work. Past 5 years of riding bikes to work no issues with either the VStar or the GoldWing but you may be right it could be wreaking havoc on the KTM!

Gefr, I'll give that a try.

Sumi, I ordered the sensor and will run down the wires also before installing. The neutral light issue began the day I bought the bike and drove it home. When I got home with it and put it in the garage the light would not illuminate in neutral. I called my friend I had purchased it from and he hadn't had the issue previously. It worked the next morning and then intermittently until other issues arose. I wish I had ran that gremlin down at that time but then the snowball effect began with the other issues with the bike including the WP failure and rebuild and the neutral light got lost in the fray!! I was sort of hoping that with everything else done to the bike (clean oil jet, swap a couple clutch plates, water pump rebuild, R&R fuel filters, ITG filter kit, SAS removal & canisterectomy, valve adjustment, new plugs, R&R TPS , R&R cluth fluid and new oring in slave, etc) that the neutral light would miraculously fix itself!!

I am getting poor StevenD I may have to start walking!!! I am just glad I am not paying $90 per hour shop fees to fix this thing or it would still be sitting in my garage!!
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Old 06-29-2014, 02:55 AM   #26
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Hi. I had the same idle issue. Adjusted the closed TPS to 0.60 V. Full open position is now at ~3.7v - Tuneecu displays this as only 96-97% when throttle is fully open (TPS values are linear from closed to fully opened position). Does this affect engine perfomance at full throttle? Are such values fine for TPS or does it need to be replaced?
By the way, mine seems to depend more on battery voltage, than the engine temperature - was 0.60 with 12.3 at battery, 0.63 with 12.7 v battery.

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Old 06-30-2014, 09:29 AM   #27
dgjackson40 OP
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Hmmm

Found this with my clutch switch. Will add to this shortly. Not easy typing on phone.

Now curious if this busted switch connector at the clutch lever could be causing any of my issues. I am going to replace it regardless but it appears wires are in tact but cannot be sure. I am guessing this has been this way for quite some time, at least since I bought the bike.

I think I have solved my neutral light issue with the gear position sensor replacement this weekend. So far I have had no problem with getting the neutral light but I only installed yesterday and tried it about 10 times or so. Time will tell. I haven't hooked the bike back up to TuneECU since TPS was set at .68. I think I will order the clutch switch before adjusting the TPS again as the bike is running pretty good now. Only a couple of instances of stalling when coming to stop sign and abruptly pulling in clutch. It is still idling a bit on the low side.

Aasdasdasddd your figures look pretty good to me. If after replacing the clutch switch my problems go away I'll post a listing of what all I have done to get to that point. I still have not determined beyond a doubt that my TPS was bad before replacing it. Someone else may be able to answer your question about full throttle performance. I am really new at TuneECU although as many times as I have hooked it up you would think not! Plus I really haven't had mine on the road at full throttle for any length of time!! I had not really paid a lot of attention to the battery voltage comparing to my TPS voltage. I'll be more cognizant of that forward.
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Old 06-30-2014, 12:17 PM   #28
gefr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgjackson40 View Post
Found this with my clutch switch.

I don't think this switch is affecting anything but the starting process with gear and sidestand deployed.

I haven't hooked the bike back up to TuneECU since TPS was set at .68.
Only a couple of instances of stalling when coming to stop sign and abruptly pulling in clutch. It is still idling a bit on the low side.

I think this is a sign of your TPS being a bit off. You need to work on it some more.
Cheers
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Old 06-30-2014, 04:01 PM   #29
Sumi
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If the efi does not sense the clutch engaged and in gear, and the throttle closed, it cuts the fuel IMO. So a faulty switch could be the cause of the stalls.

you can test it by trying to start the bike while in gear (on centerstand). If it starts 10/10 with the clutch pulled and doesn't start with the clutch released, then the switch should be ok.
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Old 07-04-2014, 11:58 AM   #30
dgjackson40 OP
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1st attempt

Quote:
Originally Posted by gefr View Post
Try 0.55, 0.60 0.65 and see where it idles better with warm motor. Neutral sensor usually malfunctions when dirty... I don't know what happens to yours, can't help, sorry
Solved my neutral light issue with the new gear position sensor.

Bike idled fine at .68 tps but didn't seem to run smooth. 1st attempt today to set to .65v with warm bike. Rode bike a couple miles and it started stalling when pulling in the clutch.

Now going to try .55v and see what that gets me. I am adjusting the TPS manually with the star screw while I have the bike on TuneECU and with the "throttle adjustment" feature ingaged. I am going to insure the throttle cables are adjusted correctly with sufficiant slack this time and set to.55v.
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