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Old 07-17-2014, 09:10 PM   #61
Snowy
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I was going around and around the block, doing slow work out the front, then standing starts in first and 2nd. 45 mins of playing.

Definitely a game changer.

My 10/70 synthetic engine oil takes a little while to heat up. but once hot, such smooth engagement it's hard to believe.

I'm going up to my playground in the mountains on Sunday. It snowed the last couple of nights. See how it performs in the snow.
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Old 07-17-2014, 11:30 PM   #62
OZZY-GS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowy View Post
It comes set up for medium engagement.

It took about 20mins to strip and fit new clutch. A bit of stuffing around to get correct play on lever.

Engages about 1600 rpm accelerating, seems to start disengaging at about 2000 when slowing down.

Very strange feeling at first. Flawless clutch engagement from standing starts.

I was idling around out the front at far lower speeds than I'd have thought possible, one handed. Which was all good until I went to full right lock in the gravel and the throttle cable hooked on the steering damper post and blipped the throttle. Then shit nearly got real.

This is a game changer for the bike I think.

I have the cable adjusted so that the lock nut only just fits on, and I'll probably have to swap both nuts to the top side as I have a little too much lever movement after playing around for 45 mins or so.

No big issue. I have a new clutch cable somewhere in the back of my garage. I will fit it up later and see how it goes.

So far, very impressed. I did break my elastic band and shoot myself in the face with it. So...you know....not entirely without risk.

Did you keep the standard springs in Snowy?
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Old 07-18-2014, 04:18 AM   #63
Snowy
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Yeah, the medium, according to the paperwork.
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Old 07-18-2014, 05:16 AM   #64
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Well finished adjustment tonight and did the break in procedure!
Wicked is all I can say!
As Snowy said it is a game changer! I can see myself getting a little lazy with the covering the clutch in the technical stuff but who gives a shit this is gonna be great on first impressions !
Looking forward to a decent ride on the weekend
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Old 07-18-2014, 05:26 AM   #65
Snowy
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It's funny if you do a U-turn and then use the clutch old school. I thought....What the...something not working....oh...right...


I can see that going wrong hilariously on a snotty hill climb somewhere.
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Old 07-18-2014, 06:10 AM   #66
Dewtwo
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Ordered!!!

Ordered mine from friend, Tom Montgomery at Eurosport in Asheville, NC, on the 14th.

CAN'T WAIT !!!!!!!!!!
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Old 07-18-2014, 06:20 AM   #67
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There will be some interesting times ahead until we get used to it I think!
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Old 07-18-2014, 06:25 AM   #68
Snowy
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I have a ride in the Brindabellas organised for the weekend. I reckon if the Baldy Range trail doesn't break it 2 up, nothing will.
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Old 07-18-2014, 06:28 AM   #69
ebrabaek OP
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You now have two more fingers to hold on to the bar with.
Check the free play gain after its first outing. If you adjust it after the break in, then it should not move. Mine has been as the day I installed it. You now have a " clutch wear indicator" along for the ride.
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Old 07-18-2014, 06:34 AM   #70
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Just remember that if you ride a steep hill in the engagement zone, and you slip the clutch all the way to the top, it will burn out just as fast, and along with your stock plate. It is functioning just like your stock.... It just does it by itself. Do that same ride, in and out of the engagement zone, and you will be ok. I find that on steep climbs 30-40% that if you are in the engagement zone there are not enough friction to move you upwards anyway, and staying just above the friction zone, at about 2500-3000 rpm works like magic. Let us know how the ride goes.
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Old 07-18-2014, 06:47 AM   #71
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Yep, got it. Wilco.
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Old 07-18-2014, 04:23 PM   #72
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So, on a DOWNHILL descent, does the Rekluse still work normally, as in do you still have engine/transmission "drag" as a braking effect?
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Old 07-18-2014, 05:03 PM   #73
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^^^ I'm still on a learning curve here, too. I've read the majority of the threads and website information - the low-speed control seems amazingly handy; however I feel like I'm not getting a complete picture for the hill climbing/descent effects of the rekluse that Erling pointed out.

SubAtomicGenius screwed with this post 07-18-2014 at 05:10 PM
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Old 07-18-2014, 06:01 PM   #74
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So, on a DOWNHILL descent, does the Rekluse still work normally, as in do you still have engine/transmission "drag" as a braking effect?
Yes, but with a caveat. If you let the engine drop to idle rpm, you will need to bleep the throttle to regain the breaking. In all practicality the engine stays engaged all the way to about 1600 rpm.
Have a look again at post number 8. I did that on a 30-40% incline.....loose climb, and descent. Not when I reached topside with the front brake locked, it was so steep that the bike began rolling backwards. Then note the same descent how the engine stays engaged. That video is perhaps explaining it best.
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Old 07-18-2014, 06:13 PM   #75
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Originally Posted by SubAtomicGenius View Post
^^^ I'm still on a learning curve here, too. I've read the majority of the threads and website information - the low-speed control seems amazingly handy; however I feel like I'm not getting a complete picture for the hill climbing/descent effects of the rekluse that Erling pointed out.
I assume you are referring to the video in post #8. In the climb section, or any tecnical section, you normally would have to ride with two fingers covering the clutch lever, in case you have a bad bounce....rear slide, or any other scenarios where your inertia, or line breaks. When that happens, you quickly pull the clutch, or you might go down. With the rekluse, you simply throttle down a little, then back up as the bike regains traction, and you the control. On top of that, you now have a whole 5 fingers to clinch the bars, wheras only three covering the clutch.
Finally I have seen many get thrown off as the bike throws itself sideways, and the rider is not quick enough grabbing the clutch, and the bike jerks, or lunges throwing off the rider. The rekluse simply just returns the bike to idle.
This can be seen in the video I posted earlier,from the Monticello box Canyon in NM, where the front dug in, at low speed in the sand. I was in second gear, and as the camera rolled....bike on the side.... I was safe.
On the descent.....more of the same story.
Hope this clears some, but if not keep asking, and I am sure we will get there.
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