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Old 04-20-2014, 09:11 AM   #16
infinityedge
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 100RT View Post
I agree with Disston. In the past I used Hylomar and got seepage. Now use Yamabond and stays dry.
What version of Yamabond (4, 4 marine, 5, 6b, 7) works best?
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Old 04-20-2014, 09:15 AM   #17
100RT
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I have only used the #4.
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Old 04-21-2014, 11:51 AM   #18
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No, you don't use sealer goop on these cylinders.

If the O-rings on the cylinders are original, they may need replacing. (There's three--one big one around the barrel, and two little ones around the top studs).

If your pushrod seals are also leaking, that is a good time to re-seal the entire cylinder.

I re-sealed my R80RT cylinders of the same vintage, including O-rings, and there is no leakage whatsoever.

I agree with Supershaft 100% on the torquing recommendations. I use 11, 18 and 25 ft-lb sequence, just because it's easy to remember. (7 ft-lb increments).
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Old 04-21-2014, 12:01 PM   #19
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something about just a film of goop, not an actual seal.

Dont go and crimp the top stud o rings like I did, either.
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Old 04-21-2014, 12:53 PM   #20
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I have had the best luck with Durko sealant spread real thin with a #18 Exacto blade. A sealant virtually no one recommends but I think it is the best.

I always use new pushrod tube seals installed clean and dry with the release agent scrubbed off the inside and outside of the seals.

A very important tip IMO that pretty much no one else mentions is putting just a very small dab of sealant on the stud O-rings in order to keep them in place while installing and tightening down the cylinders. I always have a mirror handy and double check when there is just enough room to see and make sure that those O-rings have not fallen down on the studs during installation. If they have they will deform the cylinder/case where the cylinder pinches them and cause leaking issues that are very expensive to fix with certainty since it F's up the parts! I have seen many a late model airhead that has had this F up done to them. Part of my n00b, charlatan experience.
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Old 04-21-2014, 05:11 PM   #21
robsmoto
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I use 25 ft-lbs in three stages on my airheads. I generally use a snap-on dial / beam type torque wrench (but I've used some of the Craftsman clicker types also).To seal the base of the cylinder, e.g., after replacing leaking pushrod seals, I've long used Hylomar (just a thin coat). The next time I'll likely try Hondabond /Yamabond / 3bond as it has worked well on my Triumph.

Years back I purchased a John Chay -made tool to align the drill bit when a heli-coil needs to be installed in a stripped cylinder stud hole. I didn't know if I'd ever have an opportunity to use the tool. But one of my airhead buddies indicated that one of his studs was stripped. It turned out to be pretty easy to drill, tap, and install the heli-coil. The bike was re-assembled and ran fine afterwards.
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Old 04-22-2014, 04:05 AM   #22
garthg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supershaft View Post
A very important tip IMO that pretty much no one else mentions is putting just a very small dab of sealant on the stud O-rings in order to keep them in place while installing and tightening down the cylinders. I always have a mirror handy and double check when there is just enough room to see and make sure that those O-rings have not fallen down on the studs during installation. If they have they will deform the cylinder/case where the cylinder pinches them and cause leaking issues that are very expensive to fix with certainty since it F's up the parts! I have seen many a late model airhead that has had this F up done to them. Part of my n00b, charlatan experience.
No, not sealant. A little bit of grease will hold the O-ring in place while you snug down the cylinder.
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Old 04-22-2014, 05:18 AM   #23
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"I always use new pushrod tube seals installed clean and dry with the release agent scrubbed off the inside and outside of the seals."

What is the release agent and how do you scrub it off?
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Old 04-22-2014, 09:48 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by photorider View Post
"I always use new pushrod tube seals installed clean and dry with the release agent scrubbed off the inside and outside of the seals."

What is the release agent and how do you scrub it off?
I don't know what it is. I scrub it off with green Scotchbrite pads.

Yes, sealant. I might use grease or oil to hold my stud O-rings in place if it didn't fowl my Durko sealant. I go to a of trouble getting the setup completely oil free before I assemble it since the sealant is dependent on a clean surface. I do put just the tiniest bit of silicon on my cylinder O-rings before I put them on the cylinder spigots being very careful that none of it touches anything else. It helps them slide in better without rolling or pinching.
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Old 04-22-2014, 11:03 AM   #25
disston
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Release agent, a part of the manufacturing process. Coating sprayed into the mold that forms the rubber into the shape needed so it won't stick to the mold after process is complete.

You Mother or maybe GrandMa Ma did the same thing when she made biscuits by coating the pan with butter or oil before baking.
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