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Old 04-20-2014, 06:09 PM   #1
Ma Junior OP
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A little summer weight loss

Dropped some pounds on my 88' R100RS

Removed the fairing
Renthal bars
bar end indicators
LSL fork ears
Motogadget M-unit
Motogadget 3-Way switches
Enduralast charging system
Relocated the choke level

Really enjoying the new bars. The original ones were far too narrow. When I get some time I'll be posting the fairing and other parts for sale. Next round of mods will be gauges, a new seat, new fenders, and wheels. Does anyone know
if there are any spoked BMW wheels that are interchangeable with these Y wheels?


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Ma Junior screwed with this post 04-20-2014 at 06:52 PM
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Old 04-20-2014, 07:25 PM   #2
Other Bob
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It's looking nice. How do you like the m-unit so far?

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Old 04-20-2014, 07:44 PM   #3
Airhead Wrangler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ma Junior View Post
Does anyone know if there are any spoked BMW wheels that are interchangeable with these Y wheels?
There's nothing off the shelf that will work for the rear, but a R100R or R100GS rear hub can be modified to work with a 4 lug mono final drive. You need to mill out about 20mm of depth on the mating surface for the final drive. Check that dimension though, I can't remember exactly what it is.
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Old 04-21-2014, 12:50 AM   #4
ME 109
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Oooh, at least it wasn't a twin shock.
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Old 04-21-2014, 02:36 AM   #5
Rob Farmer
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mmm! Sorry! Gotta say it looked a lot better before.
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Old 04-21-2014, 04:01 AM   #6
100RT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Farmer View Post
mmm! Sorry! Gotta say it looked a lot better before.
I have to agree with Rob. It really caught my eye the first time you posted it.
There is no mistaking an RS when its coming down the road. But then again I ride an RT and they are suffering the same fate lately.
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Old 04-21-2014, 07:22 AM   #7
Ma Junior OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Other Bob View Post
It's looking nice. How do you like the m-unit so far?



Bob

The M-Unit is great. I wanted to update the electronics since this is my daily rider. It's very easy to program. Also using the 3 way switches really cleans up the clutter on the handlebars.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Airhead Wrangler View Post
There's nothing off the shelf that will work for the rear, but a R100R or R100GS rear hub can be modified to work with a 4 lug mono final drive. You need to mill out about 20mm of depth on the mating surface for the final drive. Check that dimension though, I can't remember exactly what it is.

Thanks for the info! I'd like to go spokes in the future but also may settle on refinishing these wheels.


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Old 04-21-2014, 08:35 AM   #8
nmalozzi
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I dig it, but I'm another one of the hated people who took the fairing off my bike. Oh well.

I dig that you now can see the graphic on the side of the tank. Keep up the good work!
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Old 04-21-2014, 04:22 PM   #9
supershaft
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I think it looks great. RS fairings are great too when you need them but I can live without them. Those RS bars are SO narrow. A gentleman's bike designed so that you can still ride it handcuffed! You can squeeze a little wider bars in there. The situation is so narrow to start with that just a little bit makes a big diff. In a RS fairing and out, I like K1 bars the best although I leave them the stock width without a fairing!

It's great that you have a smaller battery in there!

I have my sliders on backward and a stainless line straight up to my MC. Even with the calipers on the stock side of things, I would still ditch the fairing setup for a lot fewer fittings and lighter weight. With the sliders on backwards, I run the stock hard line over the back of the fender. You can still barely see it. I left my headlight frame mounted too and use a /6 style ign. switch. Great for frame mounting a windshield too!

Those mags are lighter than the tubeless spoked wheels according to BMW. They are straighter too! The tubeless spokes most often came straight out of the crate far from straight! A lot of money to get them and a lot more to get them straight! I have PDI'ed a lot of new beemers and a lot of those tubeless spoke wheels are not even close to straight!

That M unit is a lot better than stacking a bunch of stuff up on the battery posts but other than that I do not need them.

Some electronic shrink wrap insulation over the throttle and choke cable junctions' one cable and adjuster nut is the best way to keep those boxes clean for the life of the cable.

Looks? Even I get a little vain sometimes. For some reason I have never liked the looks of those RS/RT spark plug caps. I would run BMW GS cables or NGK caps.

Enjoy! Taking that fairing off is like gaining 10 hp! With stock power I remember thinking I needed some shorter gearing, something like a 3.1 or a 3.2 versus my 33/11, until I took the fairing off. And now it is a lot easier to work on. If I had a fairing, it would be a RS fairing but . . . .

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Old 04-21-2014, 05:09 PM   #10
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A /6 seat would slim down the big ass look.
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Old 04-21-2014, 07:24 PM   #11
BalefireX
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I love what you did with the bars. What kind of grips are those? Are they 22mm or 7/8"?
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Old 04-21-2014, 08:49 PM   #12
Ma Junior OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nmalozzi View Post
I dig it, but I'm another one of the hated people who took the fairing off my bike. Oh well.



I dig that you now can see the graphic on the side of the tank. Keep up the good work!

Haha, thanks. I don't mind all the negative Nancys. My bike. My mods. Pretty simple.

Quote:
Originally Posted by supershaft View Post
I think it looks great. RS fairings are great too when you need them but I can live without them. Those RS bars are SO narrow. A gentleman's bike designed so that you can still ride it handcuffed! You can squeeze a little wider bars in there. The situation is so narrow to start with that just a little bit makes a big diff. In a RS fairing and out, I like K1 bars the best although I leave them the stock width without a fairing!

It's great that you have a smaller battery in there!

I have my sliders on backward and a stainless line straight up to my MC. Even with the calipers on the stock side of things, I would still ditch the fairing setup for a lot fewer fittings and lighter weight. With the sliders on backwards, I run the stock hard line over the back of the fender. You can still barely see it. I left my headlight frame mounted too and use a /6 style ign. switch. Great for frame mounting a windshield too!

Those mags are lighter than the tubeless spoked wheels according to BMW. They are straighter too! The tubeless spokes most often came straight out of the crate far from straight! A lot of money to get them and a lot more to get them straight! I have PDI'ed a lot of new beemers and a lot of those tubeless spoke wheels are not even close to straight!

That M unit is a lot better than stacking a bunch of stuff up on the battery posts but other than that I do not need them.

Some electronic shrink wrap insulation over the throttle and choke cable junctions' one cable and adjuster nut is the best way to keep those boxes clean for the life of the cable.

Looks? Even I get a little vain sometimes. For some reason I have never liked the looks of those RS/RT spark plug caps. I would run BMW GS cables or NGK caps.

Enjoy! Taking that fairing off is like gaining 10 hp! With stock power I remember thinking I needed some shorter gearing, something like a 3.1 or a 3.2 versus my 33/11, until I took the fairing off. And now it is a lot easier to work on. If I had a fairing, it would be a RS fairing but . . . .

Man, the original battery looked like a car battery practically. I did one trip with the fairing and it was splendid to cruise at 115 without feeling a thing. But for my day to day usage I don't need it and aesthetically I prefer a naked bike.

Thanks for the info on the wheels. I hadn't considered the straitness of the spokes wheels. And yeah, I concur NGK plugs and caps are on the way to replace these stockers.

Quote:
Originally Posted by robtg View Post
A /6 seat would slim down the big ass look.

Good idea. Wonder if it would mount to the frame without major modification? Still trying to figure out what I'm going to do about losing the trunk. It's quite useful.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BalefireX View Post
I love what you did with the bars. What kind of grips are those? Are they 22mm or 7/8"?

Thanks, bars are 7/8 Renthal Ultra Lows and the grips are leather wrapped. Gonna do a nice brown seat to match the grips.


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Old 04-22-2014, 12:25 AM   #13
685
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You didn't do anything that can't be changed back. Your bike is your own to screw up anyway you want.

Everytime you mod an airhead, God kills a cat! Not much, but it's a start.
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Old 04-22-2014, 05:43 AM   #14
nmalozzi
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Look for a non cowled /7 seat. That's what I did with my 83 r80rt. it looks way better on the naked bike.

I was able to do the seat swap for free. Post in the flea market that you're looking to trade cowl for noncowl. I did that and got multiple offers. Went with the first response. I'd bet you'll have a similar experience.
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Old 04-22-2014, 03:55 PM   #15
dvblue_2000
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If I need to ride behind a fairing, I'll hop on my 2-wheeled Buick.
I loved riding my RT stripped down. I called it Zip-Zip after one of the bikes on Mario Kart. It was great for getting around town.

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