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Old 01-13-2015, 08:52 AM   #1
elyobelyob OP
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Adding power to a top box

I've ordered a top box and am wondering whether if it is possible to add power to this. The idea is to grab the spare leads under the rear seat. Add a waterproof female connecter to somewhere on the bodywork. Then run a male connector to the top box. In the top box I'd have some sort of multiple USB charger. Just means I can charge cameras, spare phone batteries etc whilst on the go.

Are those underseat cables running a decent power? Are they switched by the ignition? How much power can I safely run off the bike (i.e. I am doing pretty much the same as running a USB adapter off the cigarette lighter).
Something like this for example ... http://www.amazon.co.uk/Desktop-Char.../dp/B00GYNW1TA

Any advice on this appreciated, especially in regards to sourcing bits to do this with. Also with calculating the power consumption and availability.

Thanks
Nick
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Old 01-13-2015, 09:04 AM   #2
cookieGB
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there's two wires under the seat. one is fused at 10A and is unswitched, and the other is said to be 1A. not sure if that is actually fact, as it is fed directly from an electronic control box. it is switched.

the 10A feeds the heated grips, and probably the seat, if fitted also, so that does cut down on the power available. i found this out when running heated jacket and gloves as it blew the fuse.

simple enough to take a fused feed from the battery though.
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Old 01-13-2015, 05:45 PM   #3
elyobelyob OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cookieGB View Post
there's two wires under the seat.
simple enough to take a fused feed from the battery though.
See, maybe I'm lazy here, but I couldn't do all that without help. Happy to learn as I go, but starting from scratch on all this stuff. I can figure the facts, I reckon .. but experience counts when someone can explain it.

Am happy to solder with computers and stuff, but blowing up a KTM is not the same as blowing up a Raspberry Pi.

So, I can start from the start .. it runs at 110W to 240W .. now, someone can explain amperage to me.
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Old 01-13-2015, 05:56 PM   #4
cookieGB
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while it's a fairly risk free and simple operation to do what you want, you're going to need wire, sleeving, a fuse, crimps + tools to do the job, so might be better to get someone with experience to do it for you?
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Old 01-14-2015, 07:18 AM   #5
antirich5
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Yea, you want to make sure you ONLY use the plugs labeled ASSC 1 (I believe). This is the switched power plug. The other ones won't work reliably and will throw CANBUS errors.

Found this out the hard way. Nothing damaged, just frustrating.

I have no idea why KTM has other plugs back there, would like to know what they're for. Same deal with the front plugs as well.
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Old 01-14-2015, 07:23 AM   #6
cookieGB
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ACC 1 is the 10A fused feed, effectively straight off the battery. it is unswitched. it is the yellow/red wire.

cookieGB screwed with this post 01-14-2015 at 08:19 AM
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Old 01-14-2015, 07:29 AM   #7
phreakingeek
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pretty quick and easy to figure out your amp requirements based on your wattage needs.

watts/volts=amps
(easy to get the info using an online converter: http://www.supercircuits.com/resourc...amps-converter)

240W/12v=20amp max draw. So, a 20amp fused lead from your battery would be all you need to run.

I dont have first hand experience with the plugs you are referring to, but you can either get a wiring diagram for your bike and confirm it is has a 20amp fuse (which i doubt) or run a new wire that you know for sure has a dedicated 20amp fuse.

Or if you want to really go crazy, get a fuse block and you'll have all the circuits you can ever need for wiring accesories...
http://www.amazon.com/Fuzeblocks-FZ-...ords=fuzeblock



Quote:
Originally Posted by elyobelyob View Post
See, maybe I'm lazy here, but I couldn't do all that without help. Happy to learn as I go, but starting from scratch on all this stuff. I can figure the facts, I reckon .. but experience counts when someone can explain it.

Am happy to solder with computers and stuff, but blowing up a KTM is not the same as blowing up a Raspberry Pi.

So, I can start from the start .. it runs at 110W to 240W .. now, someone can explain amperage to me.
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Old 01-14-2015, 07:42 AM   #8
FalcoScott
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elyobelyob View Post
See, maybe I'm lazy here, but I couldn't do all that without help. Happy to learn as I go, but starting from scratch on all this stuff. I can figure the facts, I reckon .. but experience counts when someone can explain it.

Am happy to solder with computers and stuff, but blowing up a KTM is not the same as blowing up a Raspberry Pi.

So, I can start from the start .. it runs at 110W to 240W .. now, someone can explain amperage to me.
From reading various threads here on Advrider, it seems that the switched ACC2 circuit is only 1A, so that won't work for you, as your 240W requirement creates a 20A max draw. I wouldn't use the ACC1 circuit either, as it is only rated at 10A. I also would not want a 20A circuit drawing from my battery when the bike is not running, as at some point you will forget to unplug whatever you're charging when you go in for lunch on a ride, and come out to a low battery, potentially. I would run a switched circuit to your top box. The 1A ACC2 circuit would make sense, as you could use that to trigger a fused 20A relay (30A would be better for safety sake) to power your top box. That way, you would have plenty of power available when needed, and it would not be powered when the key is off. There does seem to be some concern about throwing codes when using the ACC2 circuit, so maybe someone with more direct knowledge of the KTM circuitry can chime in about that.
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Old 01-14-2015, 12:37 PM   #9
TimOz
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I have used the ACC1 wire under the rear of the seat to power my top box.

I use a Coocase that has remote opening and built in backlights. I have added extra led strips and these are wired to the relevant wire that feds the rear led brake unit.

This works perfectly and I have never had any dash warnings or fuse issues at all.
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Old 01-21-2015, 12:30 PM   #10
elyobelyob OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimOz View Post
I have used the ACC1 wire under the rear of the seat to power my top box.

I use a Coocase that has remote opening and built in backlights. I have added extra led strips and these are wired to the relevant wire that feds the rear led brake unit.

This works perfectly and I have never had any dash warnings or fuse issues at all.
What connectors did you use to power the top box? I am guessing I need to be able to remove the top box at any point. Did you put through any bodywork? Thanks
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Old 01-21-2015, 02:15 PM   #11
Mr.Metal
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Look into AdMore Lightin products, they could solve your situation I'm pretty sure.
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Old 01-22-2015, 01:23 AM   #12
Dominik78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimOz View Post
I have used the ACC1 wire under the rear of the seat to power my top box.

I use a Coocase that has remote opening and built in backlights. I have added extra led strips and these are wired to the relevant wire that feds the rear led brake unit.

This works perfectly and I have never had any dash warnings or fuse issues at all.
Hey Timo,
Is that the V37 Wizard? If so, what did you use for a mount plate? Thanks!
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Old 01-23-2015, 03:40 AM   #13
MysteryRider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elyobelyob View Post
What connectors did you use to power the top box? I am guessing I need to be able to remove the top box at any point. Did you put through any bodywork? Thanks
Why not run it off of something like this?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/161089041262

I have these battery tender connections on all my bikes. I also have my air compressor as well as some jump leads made up.
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