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Old 04-29-2014, 09:10 AM   #16
coloktmGS
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Jeff always has a trick. KTM foot peg install:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TgEBRGSo7ZU
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Old 04-29-2014, 09:30 AM   #17
Black Hills
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Originally Posted by strider.deano View Post
Same issue for me (I started looking for a bigger hammer) until I read Kurt's instructions...."Don't tighten bolts until the end!" when I loosened the left peg mount bolts up, the two back skid plate bolts lined up perfectly. The only issue I have with the skid plate is that it's got quite a echo when a rock kicks up. I'll add a bit of firewall material at the next oil change.

Great Job Kurt!
I should have probably loosened them up a bit more, but it all went OK. I agree it is a great product.
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Old 04-29-2014, 09:44 AM   #18
ebrew OP
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Can you get the plate

Off ( oil change) with out loosing the foot pegs ?
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Old 04-29-2014, 09:59 AM   #19
Black Hills
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Originally Posted by ebrew View Post
Off ( oil change) with out loosing the foot pegs ?

pretty sure, if not a few minor "adjustments" and it will
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Old 04-29-2014, 01:13 PM   #20
DirtJack
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Yea, yea, I know all the foot peg tricks/secrets. You shouldn't have to mess with foot pegs to drop the skid plate. And you still have to mess with cotter keys and have some spares ready to go if they have been off too many times. And don't forget the brake pedal keeps the foot peg pin from being removed. I'll let you know later today if mine will go off/on just removing the four bolts.

Didn't take long to check it out. I removed the four bolts. The front bolts try to move the sides of the plate in towards their mount points. No problem there. The back two bolts come right out, but the plate is firmly wedged in place by the heavy mounts underneath the foot peg bolts. Even though the front is free, no amount of leverage on the front would move the back.

Part of the problem is that the clip nuts take some space between the plate and their mounting tabs. I've always hated those kind of nuts. I removed them at the bottom mount point of my 990 tanks and drilled them out and replaced them with long thru bolts to ease the task of mounting the 990 tanks.

I think a similar approach would work here after bending the plate a bit. I plan to try the following.

0) Try to bend the rear of the plate in a bit at the mount points.

1) Remove the clip nuts at the rear

2) Replace the 8 mm button head bolts with hex head bolts and nyloc nuts. There is plenty of room at the back side to insert the bolts from the rear and put the nuts outside. Hold the hex head with a box end wrench on back and tighten the outside. Use washers on both sides of the bolt of course. Can't try this today because I don't have suitable nyloc nuts and I am riding tomorrow.

I'll report back later. I'm interested if anyone else can get their plate off/on using just the 4 bolts.
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DirtJack screwed with this post 04-29-2014 at 01:53 PM Reason: Results of trying to remove skid plate.
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Old 04-29-2014, 02:26 PM   #21
KTMforget
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Thanks for all the comments and compliments guys!!

This is a brand new product obviously and I welcome any feedback you have.

Yes, the M8x20 bolts are for the front skid plate mounts and the M8x25 are for the rear. I will have to update the instructions. The four M8x30 "low head" bolts are for the footpegs bracket.

The footpeg dowel pin is worth its weight in gold for sure. Makes reinstalling the springs / pin MUCH easier. As an added bonus that pin should work on just about every KTM (not that any of you own more than one )

No, the footpegs do NOT need to be removed for an oil change. As I said in the instructions, make sure for the first install that the rear / footpegs mounts are loose before tightening the rear mounting bolts.

The skid plate will give a bit to remove and reinstall for oil changes. No hammer required. My suggestion is to hold one side in place and push the other side into position. I just changed the oil on my 1190 last night and it worked fine. Yes, it may take a bit of elbow grease but it is not a daily occurrence, and if you have that much trouble with it, maybe you should be on an XR100??

If you have any other questions, please don't hesitate to contact me directly - either through a PM or through our website.

Thanks for your continued support
Kurt
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Old 04-29-2014, 02:37 PM   #22
DirtJack
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KTMforget View Post

No, the footpegs do NOT need to be removed for an oil change. As I said in the instructions, make sure for the first install that the rear / footpegs mounts are loose before tightening the rear mounting bolts.

The skid plate will give a bit to remove and reinstall for oil changes. No hammer required. My suggestion is to hold one side in place and push the other side into position. I just changed the oil on my 1190 last night and it worked fine. Yes, it may take a bit of elbow grease but it is not a daily occurrence, and if you have that much trouble with it, maybe you should be on an XR100??

If you have any other questions, please don't hesitate to contact me directly - either through a PM or through our website.

Thanks for your continued support
Kurt
Kurt, thanks for responding.

I can assure you that I had the foot peg bolts and the front crash bar mounting bolts very loose before I installed the plate and bolts. In fact, it was the only way I could get the plate in place.

My plate will not move after removing the four bolts. The front is completely loose, but the back is so tightly wedged no amount of force would move (or rotate) the plate on my bike (even levering from the front of the loosened plate). Maybe it is a KTM manufacturing tolerance issue, but I could not move it.
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Old 04-29-2014, 02:45 PM   #23
Black Hills
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At the risk of being demoted to a XR100 I simply gave a good whack on each rear mounting point with a 5lb. deadblow and it works perfectly. you have to force it into place, but it is by no means stuck. I think it will be just fine. On a side note the BDCW rear rack installed easily and looks to be a fantastic product as well.
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Old 04-29-2014, 03:22 PM   #24
jimmex
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XR100 demotion is draconian, no.
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Old 04-29-2014, 03:27 PM   #25
gouralnik
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Could you please tell me where you got the detachable pegs that you have mounted on the crash bars? Thank you.
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Old 04-30-2014, 08:29 PM   #26
KTMforget
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtJack View Post
Kurt, thanks for responding.

I can assure you that I had the foot peg bolts and the front crash bar mounting bolts very loose before I installed the plate and bolts. In fact, it was the only way I could get the plate in place.

My plate will not move after removing the four bolts. The front is completely loose, but the back is so tightly wedged no amount of force would move (or rotate) the plate on my bike (even levering from the front of the loosened plate). Maybe it is a KTM manufacturing tolerance issue, but I could not move it.
That is strange. I didn't mean to make light for the situation. I have not heard this feedback from anyone else yet. You may need to bend it in a bit to make the removal for service easier. Sorry for any inconvenience

Thanks for your support
Kurt
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Old 05-01-2014, 09:03 AM   #27
Doug Matson
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Old 05-01-2014, 03:21 PM   #28
DirtJack
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KTMforget View Post
That is strange. I didn't mean to make light for the situation. I have not heard this feedback from anyone else yet. You may need to bend it in a bit to make the removal for service easier. Sorry for any inconvenience

Thanks for your support
Kurt
Kurt, I'm probably the only one (besides you) who has tried to remove/re-install the skid plate without loosening the foot pegs. The skid plate (according to instructions) fits outside the forward mounts and inside the rear mounts. On my bike, there is about 1/2" (summing the clearance of both sides) clearance at the front, but misses going back inside the rear mounts by about 12-15mm (the thickness of the plate plus a little) on each side. That's a lot of bending and I don't the right tools to do the bends.

I did get the skid plate off without loosening the foot pegs, but I had to hammer (rubber) on each side and pull the front at various angles to get it out from between the rear mounts. It was really clamped in there.

As far as I'm concerned, it is unacceptable to have to remove the foot peg mounts (even on one side) to get the skid plate back on.

I guess I will have to remove the pegs on at least one side to get it back together for now.
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Old 05-01-2014, 04:32 PM   #29
ebrew OP
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Mine does

Not come off as well.
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Old 05-01-2014, 05:12 PM   #30
sito
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Kurt,
I first want to say that this skid plate rocks! Very nice job, if youre going to ride a 1190 like its a dirt bike you are going to want one of these protecting your bike. BD has learned a lot over the years with the 950s & 990s and you can see they brought wisdom and experience over to the 1190. Love that this relocated the side stand, that has always been an issue on these big heavy bikes. This skid plate is huge and gives this bike great protection! Yes this install is a little more work intensive the the 950s & 990s but I think the payoff is well worth it. I think if BD posts up a video on their site it would clear up a lot of misunderstanding and confusion. I would have love to watch someone else do it first. Now after doing it once it would only take 20 mins to do it again.

My only comment is to junk the Clip nuts on the back. I spent more time trying to get those F%$@ing bolts to go in. I finally junked them and installed the bolt and neoprene nuts. With the clip nuts it was too tight to push the plate up and then clip nuts would get all bent up and misaligned. Pulled the clips off pushed the plate up then used a drift pin to line up the hole (done).

Nice Job Black Dog very happy!
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