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Old 05-08-2014, 06:07 PM   #16
mlyamkaw OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeShoreline View Post
I think they used locktite on the splines. Use a puller, or 2 small curved pry bars( with 90 degree bend) from behind and gently rock it back and forth until it starts to move.
That wasn't the problem, I was able to wiggle it right away. It would not clear the groove in the swing arm until I ground down the 2 teeth on the sprocket a bit.
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Old 05-09-2014, 02:26 AM   #17
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Without seeing the situation i would NOT recommend cutting a Little on the splines if thats What you´ve done.
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Old 05-09-2014, 05:00 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by LocuL View Post
Without seeing the situation i would NOT recommend cutting a Little on the splines if thats What you´ve done.
The teeth on the sprocket, not the splines on the drive shaft.
I'm not using that sprocket anymore anyway, but you could still use it.

It's just a clearance issue in getting the sprocket off.
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Old 05-09-2014, 05:21 AM   #19
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i´m calm again
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Old 07-10-2014, 06:45 PM   #20
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Getting ready to do this myself.....not much room in there. Anyone figured out a trick yet or just screw with it until it come off?

I know the area on the right near the pivot shaft is going to suck but was the chain guard bar or the area on the left an issue also?

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Old 07-10-2014, 07:25 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by kag View Post
Getting ready to do this myself.....not much room in there. Anyone figured out a trick yet or just screw with it until it come off?

I know the area on the right near the pivot shaft is going to suck but was the chain guard bar or the area on the left an issue also?

I took all that off when I did it. The chain guard, and the clutch stuff. I had to grind the teeth down by the frame for mine to clear, but I think it's a tolerance issue.
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Old 07-10-2014, 07:42 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by mlyamkaw View Post
I took all that off when I did it. The chain guard, and the clutch stuff. I had to grind the teeth down by the frame for mine to clear, but I think it's a tolerance issue.
Thats what I figured....any issues with the clutch slave, either going off or back on?
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Old 07-10-2014, 07:56 PM   #23
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Mine came off with a lot of wiggling. I rotated it so the offending part was between teeth and while they still hit it wasn't enough to prevent it from coming off?
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Old 07-10-2014, 08:58 PM   #24
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Thats what I figured....any issues with the clutch slave, either going off or back on?
No issues with mine. Just remember how it comes apart. Seem to remember several parts, and laying them out in order they came out so I would get them back in correctly.
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Old 07-11-2014, 08:31 PM   #25
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Changed the front sprocket tonight

I appreciate the advice I got. I thought I will detail what I did so that maybe someone else is helped also.


New barely used 16t front sprocket I got from another inmate (Thank you) . Stock photo




First thing I did was remove the plastic guard. Then drank a beer....have to pace yourself. Removed the slave and metal chain guard. Pull the slave off as one piece and just keep it together. Then behind the slave is the metal chain guard then a little plastic spacer type piece, Pull them off. I put the bike in gear and bend the lock wash tab flat then put a socket to the sprocket nut. Lefty loosey.......more beer



Then once the sprocket nut was off I loosed the rear axle and knocked it slight out after I adjusted the chain tension bolt all the way forward. Then tapped the rear tire all the way forward. You need chain slack. Took the chain off the rear and front sprockets.



I tapped the front sprocket to just loosen it up in case there was any rust and there was. I started working it forward as shown in the photo. It was hung up on the pivot shaft area so I put a screwdriver in between the the teeth and slightly put pressure towards the front of the bike and then pulled with my left hand and it popped right off. 2 minutes. 1 minute of that was guzzling beer and looking at it.



There was a bunch of rust on the splines.



So i wire brushed it real quick and then applied a helping of anti-seize to the splines and wiggled the new sprocket on.



Put the washer and nut back on and re-assembled it. Drank another beer

Since I had 2 beers left I knew I wasn't finished. I changed the brake fluids as the current fluids were looking rather dark. Done


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kag screwed with this post 07-11-2014 at 08:36 PM
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Old 07-11-2014, 08:55 PM   #26
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Nice write up kag
Pictures are really helpful
Also like you kept yourself hydrated through the whole process
Please report back with your impression of the bike with the 16T sprocket
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Old 02-05-2015, 06:41 PM   #27
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Just for the heck of it I bought a 16t to go even lower for more technical off road stuff (already have 45 rear)... Same issue as OP. Just came to do a sanity check before grinding a hair off tips of two teeth as that seemed to me the only way to get it off.

Issue isnt "how to remove a CS sprocket" or best process to remove... It is that there is physical interference with swingarm making removal not possible. I even put a gear puller on it thinking it must just be a little scratch away (two teeth rubbing swingarm) from coming off, but the interference is at least .015" and it was starting to bind rather than scrape its way past.

My CS sprocket is not worn at all(or rather doesnt appear to be), so I am guessing the assembly process has the motor installed with CS sprocket already on (or swingarm installed after CS sprocket) so that variation between barely fits and doesnt fit isn't noticed. It would not have been possible to assemble the reverse of basic removing.
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Old 02-05-2015, 07:35 PM   #28
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So I ground about .015" off two teeth, and I still had to wrestle it off with the gear puller (though with much less force).

Sorry for the crappy phone pics but hopefully better than nothing. Ground tips off two teeth (~.015"/.4mm) marked in red:




Still had interference with swingarm! See lines where paint is gone and fresh aluminum is exposed.


To add insult to injury the 16t sprocket I got is too tight a fit, rubbing ID bad. Tapped it on with a hammer about 1/4" to make sure it wasn't spline off (it starts OK), but then had to use gear puller again to get it off and there are gouge marks on the ID of the sprocket evenly all the way around (rubbing outer dia of shaft spline) so it isn't a simple burr, but rather the broach used was a .001" or so too small. It is slight enough I would be able to get it to go on with some force, but that is not the right way to go about it. Should be a snug fit, not a press fit! Will have to return it and try again. Arrrgh nothing can ever be as easy as it should be.
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Old 02-05-2015, 08:06 PM   #29
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I smeared my splines with anti seize so hopefully getting the front sprocket off next time will be easy..er
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Old 02-05-2015, 08:10 PM   #30
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I smeared my splines with anti seize so hopefully getting the front sprocket off next time will be easy..er
Yes always liberally grease or use anti seize on the CS sprocket and shaft spline! Getting it off isn't nearly as much of an issue as premature wear on the splines if you don't.
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