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Old 05-20-2014, 08:59 AM   #31
2WheelieADV OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dog2 View Post
I am planning to rent from the same company in Milan in the end of June and would appreciate feedback on your experience.
dog, I'm going in July, so I'll gonna need rather your feedback :)
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Old 05-20-2014, 09:06 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by MichaelJ View Post
Points:

Day 1 - you're going up to Gletsch and then back down to take the train under the Furka. From Gletsch, hop up to the Grimsel (a VERY short detour) and then back down to Gletsch and over the Furka to Andermatt.

Day 2 - From the Fuorn Pass, continue on to Santa Maria Val Mustair and pick up the Umbrail Pass that takes you almost to the top of the Stelvio. Up to the Stelvio and back down to Bormio.

Day 3 - You're going south out of Bormio and looping up to the Gavia and back down. Why not just head to the Gavia from Bormio? Unless you have someplace to see that isn't obvious.

Days 4-6 - head for Arabba and overdose on some of the best roads in the world packed into an impossibly small area. Plan on 2 nights in Arabba.

Day 7 - I hate the last day when I'm heading back to turn the bike in. I know some lovely routes, but it would take up the whole day and you'd probably get back to Milano too late. Your route is better than just hitting the Autostrada, though.


More days is ALWAYS good!


I like the Evaldo - especially if I want to feel pampered for a day or two. Not the cheapest, but I'm worth it.

The Olympia is OK and I have mixed emotions about the Al Forte (a bit out of town). I had an absolutely HORRIBLE (detailed rant on request) room there last year.

Note: Motorcyclists are BIG business in the Alps, and are actively courted and catered to by the tourist industry. Welcome to the world of being an Honored Guest rather than Biker Scum


This was a day last July from about 09:00 to 17:00, starting and ending at Arabba:

Campolongo
Gardena
Sella
Pordoi (up and back)
Fedaia (up and back)
Costalunga
Nigra (up and back)
Lavaze
Oclini (up and back)
Pramadiccio
San Pellegrino (NOT the water)
Rolle
Cereda
Aurine
Franche (up and back)
Duran (rain started)
Staulanza

I would have added the Giau, Falzarego and Valparola, but there were active T-Storms at altitude and I'm a bit chicken about all that electricity in one place.

Granted - this WAS a pretty focused ride, but I doubt that there's anywhere else on earth that you can ride so many passes in a day.

Oh yeah - and you DO have a copy of this, don't you? (don't leave home without it)
Thanks a bunch. I could adjust the route.
Day 2 should I skip Passo di Foscagno?
As for day 3 "Why not just head to the Gavia from Bormio?" - the road just opened yesterday that's why it showed around - adjusted.
Day 3 I'll end in Arabba and stay there for 2 nights. Day 4 will do this loop recommended by Cooltours - http://goo.gl/maps/zRj3k
Will check out the hotels. Thanks man!

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Old 05-21-2014, 03:25 AM   #33
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Day 2 should I skip Passo di Foscagno?
That's your call. You'd actually miss 2 passes - the Eira (at the Livigno-Italian border) and the Foscagno.

That being said, they're both passes that you normally wouldn't notice if it weren't for the signs.

IMHO, going to the Umbrail and skipping Livigno is the better ride - you trade two minor passes for one major one and, as a bonus, don't have to backtrack the Stelvio's entire west ramp (except for about 3 kms at the top). MUCH nicer ride.

If you're interested, PM me with your email address and I'll send you a Google Earth KMZ file with about 170+ passes that I have captured on a GPS at the passhohe.

Also - if you haven't already, check out the Alpine Roads site. Lots of info up front and more in the forums. It's a fairly small community and we've been meeting somewhere (in the Alps, of course) since 2007 for a get-together. It's mostly Brits, but there's a goodly sample from around the world.
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Old 05-21-2014, 04:39 PM   #34
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Great info. Thanks for all the help. This site rocks big time! :)
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Old 05-24-2014, 01:40 PM   #35
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Can you recommend a nice route going Arabba to Lk. Garda:
Here are 2 options I narrowed, but if anyone familiar with the area, I'll follow your advice.
Opt1 narrow foresty road (D to E) http://goo.gl/maps/jaDBf
Opt2 open with mountain views, and not a autostrada (E to H) http://goo.gl/maps/TqwyN
Timing wise is about the same.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MichaelJ View Post
Points:
Day 7 - I hate the last day when I'm heading back to turn the bike in. I know some lovely routes, but it would take up the whole day and you'd probably get back to Milano too late. Your route is better than just hitting the Autostrada, though.
The map shows only 3:5 h to Milan. http://goo.gl/maps/4HjIR
Do you know of any interesting sightseeing I may stop by on the way? I may have some time left as I returning the bike around 18:00.

Thanks.
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Old 05-24-2014, 03:01 PM   #36
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I'd probably do this:
https://goo.gl/maps/AjK4O

Or, as an alternative, this:
https://goo.gl/maps/PP62u

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Old 05-25-2014, 04:12 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by 2WheelieADV View Post
Can you recommend a nice route going Arabba to Lk. Garda:
IMHO...

Option 1 (modified) is the ONLY option. It takes you over the Passo Manghen (one of my favorite little passes) and the main road into Trento goes by a lovely lake.

My mod would be to go over Monte Bondone from Trento (SP85 & SP84 - the white lines on the map) and down into Arco and Riva and points south.

Passo Manghen



Coming down from Monte Bondone





As a plus - very little traffic except for Trento (Duh!) and the stretch of SS40 from Canazei until the turnoff at Molina for the Manghen road. That being said, ALL of the major valley roads in the Dolomites will have varying degrees of heavy traffic - all those damn tourists.

And, on your way down Lake Garda, be sure to stop off at the Hotel Paradiso in Tremosine for a coffee - killer views from their little balcony





1,200 feet down to the water
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Old 05-25-2014, 09:54 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by 2WheelieADV View Post


The map shows only 3:5 h to Milan. http://goo.gl/maps/4HjIR
Do you know of any interesting sightseeing I may stop by on the way? I may have some time left as I returning the bike around 18:00.
.
Now we're getting to the interesting bit
http://goo.gl/maps/juhfB
Contrary to what Google reckons (which is always crap, anyway), this route will take around 5.5 hrs. incl. quite a few leisurely photo stops, a coffee along the way etc....add another 1/2 -1 hr. for lunch in Berzo, Cevo or Saviore (just west of point E) and it's your choice to run the SS42 south-west into Bergamo -> Milano ...or take the parallel route as marked. From Schilparo, it's most likely quicker than the SS42, due to less traffic.
Tourist traffic will be your one main question mark for the whole trip, though (considering the chosen timeslot).

Both points D+E are fabulous scenic spots with views to knock your sox off, both dead-end roads are single-lane...and that's SINGLE!! lane....asphalt!

No "pass-bagging" though...
Lots of other breathtaking roads and spots in the general area.





















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Old 05-26-2014, 08:05 AM   #39
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Wow! The pics are just stunning. I just imagine how it looks in real...
This route goes thru Passo Vivione (in the middle of E & F) if I remember well.
Where exactly were they taken (like first 4) and which town is it on pic 6?
Thanks guys, you're great! :)

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Old 05-26-2014, 02:51 PM   #40
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This route goes thru Passo Vivione (in the middle of E & F) if I remember well.
Where exactly were they taken (like first 4) and which town is it on pic 6?
Thanks guys, you're great! :)
Yo, I like the single-laners. Vivione it is.
For some extra scenic stuff and cute villages take the SP58/ SP61, looping off the Vivione and joining again a few km further south (coming from the north it's signed to Vilminore I think)


First 4 pics are around the Lake Caldonazzo/ Levico Terme, Both north and south shores have a maze of tiny roads, 95% sealed with incredible road construction and views to die for.
Easily enough material for a week (or 4) on its own.
Personally, that's the area I'd spend the last night at, not at Lake Como. Lots neater and LOTS cheaper with plenty of choices.
Riva del Garda is a pain to navigate at the best of times... being choked with tourists it's a nightmare.
Same thing for the cliff-face road along the western shore....no overtaking, lots of traffic and you're facing south into the thick smog of the northern Italian plains. Stay in the mountains for as long as you possibly can.

The last 2 pics are the town of Storo, just north of Lake Idro.
The place watched over by an illuminated Virgin Mary at night.
Safe place to sleep
The Pizza restaurant at the eastern edge of town has got some rooms at reasonable prices. Owner is a rider with a few bikes in next door's garage.
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Old 05-27-2014, 02:53 AM   #41
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Yo, I like the single-laners. Vivione it is.
Definitely on my favorites list (along with Manghen)

My buddy on Vivione in '07. He kept saying that his driveway was wider.

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Old 05-27-2014, 02:55 AM   #42
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Wow! The pics are just stunning. I just imagine how it looks in real...
I brought my kids over in 2003. As we were waiting to get into Livigno, my elder son commented that it would be impossible to properly describe the scenery - it had to be experienced.

And that wasn't even a good part!
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Old 05-27-2014, 03:09 AM   #43
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I am going to (slightly) hijack this thread to ask a couple questions. First, the advice here is great and thanks to all of you guys with local experience for sharing.

My situation is this. I am arriving in Stockholm from the overnight boat out of Helsinki on 24 June. I have to be in Porto Venere IT on 7 July. For the 14 days between, I have completely free hands to ride solo, south via Copenhagen and into Germany staying a night in Schlessvig Holstein with some friends (just north of Lubeck) From there...? Don't know. The "direct" route is 2300km. I will hammer out the 700 from Stockholm to Copenhagen on day 1, which I have done several times. This leaves me with about 13 days and 1600km to do them in. I have ridden south through lower saxony and into the rhineland palatinate a couple times and will probably follow reasonable secondary roads south as I did previously. I prefer this to Autobahn especially on a 650cc single.

My main plan is just to follow the road as I find it and as weather permits. If the situation warrants, I was thinking of going as far west as Champagne and the Alsace, heading southward and entering Italy from France. But if the weather is good, I am thinking of going more or less south through Germany and entering the Alps from either the Black Forest, or from Bavaria.

First question: any route recommendations? Meaning from france, the black forest, or bavaria? Given how long I am riding I can easily get to just about any starting point. I am of course studying the routes discussed here, but if any of you German/Swiss riders could offer a northern fellow some routing advice, I would be grateful. I am not focused only on the mountains or the passes; I also do photography, cultural sights, decent restaurants. So a mix of things would be wanted.

Second question: I am bringing along some camping gear for some nights. I know I cannot camp wild and free as we do here in the Nordics (meaning that here we can just pull to the side of the road, camp like hippies, and move on). How is the situation with private campgrounds? Are they plentiful? Easy to just pull up and pay?

Thanks for any advice, guys.

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Old 05-27-2014, 05:58 AM   #44
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My main plan is just to follow the road as I find it and as weather permits. If the situation warrants, I was thinking of going as far west as Champagne and the Alsace, heading southward and entering Italy from France. But if the weather is good, I am thinking of going more or less south through Germany and entering the Alps from either the Black Forest, or from Bavaria.
My suggestion: skip Champagne, but def look into the Vosges 'mountains', from Strasbourg to Mulhouse. Lots of twisties and lots of traffic at the weekend. Another option is the highway 500 from Baden-Baden to the Rhein, with a few breaks in the 500 designation. Again, a very popular track at the weekend. If you do either of those, why not continue into Switzerland and Austria and then maybe into the Dolomites? A west loop into France and then entering Italy from there adds a lot of kms and the French Alps but I'm not sure you'd get your money's worth.

If I were to end up in the Dolos or Alps before heading to Porto Venere, I'd swing by Lake Garda or Lake Como, again it's busy by that time but a bike can get you through traffic. (I have found the west sides of either lakes to be slower going). I have a real phobia about northern Italy, the flat part. IMO it's too congested and the scenery is boring, so I'd make a run for it to Venere.
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Old 05-27-2014, 06:44 AM   #45
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To FinlandThumper: what bike? And are you afraid of dirt?


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