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Old 07-22-2014, 06:10 PM   #76
bajaxp
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Fantastic trip! Mas...mas!
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Old 07-22-2014, 07:07 PM   #77
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Old 07-23-2014, 03:43 PM   #78
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Thanks for following Twisted!

Animal I look forward to your RR once you do. Baja is amazing and probably the best bang for your buck by far

Thanks P, glad to see you're coming down from could 9 long enough to read your own story ;)

Anand7, true, but I found portion size to not be too bad. It's the booze were it's easy to get carried awah

Thanks XP and Dave, posting again shortly
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Old 07-23-2014, 06:02 PM   #79
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D13

Loreto AM:

Today was a day of departures, Mike had run out of time in Baja and P wanted to stay another day or two to relax and soak up Loreto. I on the other hand was still feeling itchy for miles and was also feeling the need to venture off on my own to satisfy my itch for an occasional solo adventure. Plan is, P is going to take some time then meet up w me down in La Paz to continue the party.

Abel joins us in front of his Hostal to say his goodbyes. Good dude and great place. Perfect for the adv crowd


And this is unfortunately were I part company with Kowalski as he's heading north, I'm heading south and Rocketgrrrl is heading nowhere. Thanks for everything Mike, sooner or later I'll head your way to try out your Canadian beer.


Hop on the bike and head back towards the road to the San Javier Mission. Immediately after turning on the road I pull off for unfinished business at the saloon.


I dig it


HEY!! They've got stickers!!


Happy day


Remember the algae water crossings that I talked about earlier?? Here's some better pictures of the situation. This is where the shit grows.


I've done a fair amount of gnarly water crossings in Colorado where I had water up to the intakes and I've done some water crossings were the current damn near took my bike. These stupid crossings are nothing by comparison aside from the fact that the surface is slicker then ice. It's completely possible to keep is straight and slow and still wind up muffing it. Use caution my friends.


Just past the mission the road turns to dirt :)






After cruising for a while my GPS shows the road out going to the right despite it being much more traveled to the left. Might as well follow the GPS to the right and see where it goes.


I find myself going through fenced off properties next to what looks like abandoned houses with cow shit all over the place. I'm already enjoying the feeling of probably being where I'm not supposed to


Not too far past this thatch roof house the trail turns to nothing as it becomes a dried up river bed complete with deep sand. One minute I'm cruising along, the next minute the sand swallows my rear tire whole.
No side-stand needed.

After much cursing, grunting, sweating and cursing I manage to drag the bike around and fill the hole w branches, I get enough traction to get back on top of the sand and it's back where I came from. The map I'm running is clearly outdated or simply has a good sense of humor. I like riding solo fine, but not in the sand. I hate the sand. I've had some bad experiences by myself in the sand, no need to get ballsy in 100 degree heat wearing black. Looks like it's the road more traveled this time.

If you look closely you can see two dragon flies getting nasty




Another random cattle pen and thatch hut in the middle of absolute nowhere. Creepy


I hit hwy 53 and start hauling ass south. It feels great to finally get some decent air movement in the vents, the temp today is brutal.

30 miles after Cuidad Constitution I found myself in a funny spot. I had just jumped back on the pavement after a nice session of every bigrig for himself pole-position in a road construction detour to find myself pacing a decent sized dirt devil. For a minute it was traveling southbound paralleling the hwy, then as I came within 50 feet it decides to run over the hwy and I go right through it. I snap the faceshield down and hang on to the bike.. I get hit with a wall of air but the sandpaper feeling on the neck was the worst of it, the winds were no worse then a good knock coming from a bigrig on the freeway.

As soon as I come through the other side I celebrate with a selfie like a smiling idiot.


little bastard


30 miles later, La Paz!!!


I pull into town, grab the first Hostel I find, pull the bike in and immediately head out to check out the water front action. Didn't get much of a chance to look at the hostel, I guess I'll check it out later. How bad can it be??








Words can't express how it feels to be back in La Paz. I used to come down here w my family decades ago on a regular basis and haven't seen the place in 15 years or go. Cool little town.

As I walk closer to the main drag, I start seeing more and more of these guys




Turns out I got in town just in time for one of the Baja races and it's completely taken over the town.




A quick burger and beer fix, the service was so overwhelmed w tables I only stayed for a beer, I'll grab food later.




Every hour the crowd doubles in size


Cop-strom. I talked to the high-school aged looking cop that rides it, he couldn't be more proud


Finally I have enough of the excitement and peel off to grab some food


Time to head back to my rather questionable hostel and try to get some sleep. I paid for the place sight unseen and wasn't too impressed during the 5 minutes that I spent checking in, hopefully I wasn't giving it a fair shake...

UP NEXT: La Paz revisited, new friends, local sights and time for a new hostel.
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Old 07-23-2014, 06:19 PM   #80
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Boss update. But...

Erm, what's that brown fuzzy thing on yer handlebars there? Looks a bit… suspicious. Like you castrated an ewok???
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Old 07-23-2014, 08:05 PM   #81
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Fantastic photos, writing and fun!

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Old 07-24-2014, 05:48 AM   #82
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Im really enjoying your RR I was down there late may of this year but didn't spend the time as you have due to the heat. After seeing your pics I will have to go down there again at a better time of the year and spend more time.

Thanks
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Old 07-24-2014, 01:00 PM   #83
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San Javier Road to Mex 53

Heading back down to Baja 2-up on my new to me 990R next April.
Was thinking of going from Mulege to Loreto the long way.

I did Mex53 from Ciudad Constitucion thru La Purisma, San Isidro to Mulege, that was a great road I know I can do again 2-up.

But how is the road from Loreto past San Javier Mission out to Mex53?
How long from Loreto to Mex53?

I'll make sure to stay left I hate sand too!

Not sure which way I would do it yet either, Mulege to Loreto or reverse.

Thanks Steve.

Keep up the great RR.
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Old 07-24-2014, 11:54 PM   #84
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ubermick: Not an Ewok wiener, just my bike's spirit animal, the chocolate moose.

Thanks wachs and desertrat, glad you guys are reading along

twisted: Sounds like you've ridden 2up in the dirt before, you shouldn't have any problems at all. Probably take you two hours from the time you depart Loreto till you hit 53 and thats with stopping off at the mission to take a few pictures. If you stay on the main road it's just dirt road with occasional rocky spots and road hazards whenever you need to cross the river. Main thing I would warn you against is those shallow but slick swampy water crossings. 3" deep water has never been so risky. Have your lady walk it over those and you're golden.
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Old 07-25-2014, 11:30 AM   #85
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twisted: Sounds like you've ridden 2up in the dirt before, you shouldn't have any problems at all. Probably take you two hours from the time you depart Loreto till you hit 53 and thats with stopping off at the mission to take a few pictures. If you stay on the main road it's just dirt road with occasional rocky spots and road hazards whenever you need to cross the river. Main thing I would warn you against is those shallow but slick swampy water crossings. 3" deep water has never been so risky. Have your lady walk it over those and you're golden.
This will be a 1st at 2-up in the dirt, sand will be my only worry, just have to remember throttle out when it starts to get snakie.
Saved my ass a few times on last trip twisting the throttle.

I would look back at my track and say to myself how the fu*k did I manage to save it?

I came across a few of those water crossing heading out to San Jose de Comondu Mission, you want to just blast thru them, but that would be a serious mistake.
There are as slippery as snot, I just idled thru them with my feet out ready for the spin out.
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Old 07-25-2014, 07:33 PM   #86
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Brutsqd, thanks for taking the time posting. Digg'n your writing style. It had me laughing out loud and my wife asking what I was reading. She got some good chuckles from it too!

Keep it up!
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Old 07-25-2014, 11:04 PM   #87
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Originally Posted by BRUTSQD View Post
Hop on the bike and head back towards the road to the San Javier Mission. Immediately after turning on the road I pull off for unfinished business at the saloon.


I dig it


HEY!! They've got stickers!!










I've been over the road to Mision San Javier and on to Highway 53; how did I miss that roadhouse? Guess I'll have to go back so I can get a sticker.

This RR was a terrifically entertaining read and makes me want to start riding south. Thank you for sharing! And any ride report that includes VW's is a winner in my book .
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Old 07-26-2014, 01:19 AM   #88
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Day 14: AM in a shitty hostel in La Paz

I'm not sure how, but last night when I returned from my walking tour of La Paz I managed to rub together enough brain cells to think to sleep in my sleeping bag on top of the bedding in my filthy filthy hostel.



Now.. Before I say anything about the condition of the hostel I feel obliged to qualify my standards as everyone has different ideas of what is acceptable, unacceptable or absolutely horrendous. I don't blink twice at staying in questionable motels or eating fallen food off sticky floors well after the 10 second buzzer has expired. I've done my fair share of backpacking in weird places on the planet and even survived living in the dorms at San Diego state which should tell you about my standards for living conditions and personal hygiene. Besides, I'm a nurse so not much phases me, except for this hostel.




Out of sheer morbid curiosity I drug my finger down the inside of the sink to find that a reasonable amount of the goof came off on my finger, which tells me this bathroom hasn't felt the loving caress of a sponge in probably years, if ever. Time to relocate before I catch genital rabies from the toilet seat.

Goodbye Pension California, hello BajaBackpackers!


Clean, affordable and beautiful, I couldn't be any happier with this place. Plus the family that runs it are beyond hospitable.

After pushing it for a few days I finally hit the wall and decided to spend the day napping in an airconditioned room, rehydrating and hand washing my poo poo undies and other stinky clothes articles. No need to be adventurous today...




Rick and Eva the owners steered me in the right direction to the corner taco cart for the best and cheapest tacos

12 pesos a pop


Shortly after getting back from tacos I came back to the hostel to witness the return of the Phoenix. She pulled up after riding straight from Loreto on an exceptionally muggy day. After she recovered from baking in her gear for half the day, we celebrated with some more 12 peso tacos, of course.



Took another nap then headed out to take a few sunset pictures.






Once I got back to the hostel I ran into Adam who was heading out to grab a beer and walk around town so I tagged along. Adam works for 6 months a year as a mechanic and farm hand in Australia then takes the other 6 months off to travel and live like a rockstar backpacking and chasing ex-pat cougars around in Central America. This guy has shit figured out, gotta love the guy. The evening ends with another buzz and a bacon wrapped hotdog.



God I love mexico.

UP NEXT: Nuts to butts, 2 dudes and 1 bike plus one helluva beach

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Old 07-26-2014, 03:08 AM   #89
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D15

Day 15: La Paz: Day2

As per usual, Phoenix and I postpone trip planning talks until both parties have be adequately caffeinated. Over coffee we decide that another day in La Paz might not be a bad idea as yesterday was brutal for P and I wouldn't mind another day to check out the town I knew years ago. But what to do?? I got on the internet and looked up cool things to do in La Paz, top of the list was Balandra Beach. Balandra Beach is a white sand beach about 30 minutes out of town that's known for super clear water and is apparently the local's favorite. Balandra Beach it is. Meanwhile, while P and I are deciding this, Adam had joined us for coffee and seemed bummed he couldn't join us. I told him as long as he's ok riding on the back of a dude's bike he's more then welcome to go as long as he can scrounge up a helmet....



2up it is.. Nobody get weird, 2 man bobsled team coming through..











The beach was gorgeous and the water clear as advertized. An interesting thing about the beach is you can walk into the water a quarter mile and only be in waters up to your nuts. The slope is uber gradual, makes for some excellent lounging in the shallow waters.

Passed out on the beach and woke up to some guy angrily yelling Donuts like he was pissed at his dog. Don't mind if I do...




Took a trail up the side of the mountain before taking off to check out the view.








P&P, This is Eva's lovely daughter Priscilla


Headed back to return the helmet at the goofy bike shop.


Adam, P and I headed off into town to grab some dinner and walked through another very lively night in La Paz.




The double decker trampoline, for the kids. There must be a refreshingly low number of lawyers down here.


Found a decent restaurant for our last night in La Paz.



Handy translations on the bathroom walls.




Apparently, after a beer or two, I wound up peeing in the ladies room for obvious reasons.


Aaand off to bed. Tomorrow on to San Jose del Cabo!

UP NEXT: La Paz to San Jose
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Old 07-26-2014, 12:03 PM   #90
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