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Old 08-11-2014, 11:29 AM   #106
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D20

Day 20
AM in San Juanico aka: Scorpion Bay

I'm up and out of bed early this morning so I let P sleep and I go ride around town to see what we didn't see last night.

Turns out there's camping on the beach here, didn't even notice when we came in. Neither of us regret staying at the hotel. After a long sweaty day in the saddle, a real shower and soft bed is always hard to turn down in leu of beach camping.














I head back to the hotel to pack up and head out when I realize that tragedy has struck... I'm down to my last piece of Nicole's Adventure Jerky.


I sit quietly and eat the last piece, barely able to enjoy it as the sadness of knowing there's no more jerky is overwhelming. It's official, I'm getting homesick.

We ride to the beginning out town and take a left down the dirt road that leads to San Ignacio. In town we got mixed reviews of road conditions. We heard everything from the road is a piece of cake to you two are nuts for taking bikes into the silt.. Only one way to find out.




Lots and lots and lots of washboard.




We roll through a couple remote little villages and get chased by dogs and kids. Turns out the kids wanted stickers as every other self respecting Baja traveler hands them out as they pass through. I feel like a real jerk for riding through with nothing to hand out. I won't enter Baja again without stickers.


And just like that 60mph packed gravel road turns to shit.




This stuff is crazy. It swallows bikes. It's mostly sand but it has different qualities. If you even put your foot down, it gladly accepts your boot and then tries to hang on to it like mud, only it's just sand.



P gets impressively stuck so we wind up rolling the bike over and stuffing the hole in the ground with wood and old tire tread pieces to get her some traction.


We wind up losing the bike and it falls over before the bike was rolling, I make a grab at the bike as it's falling but loose my grip as my thumb vibrates with pain. Not sure what the hell I did but whatever I did really fucking hurts! We get the bike back up, P jumps on and she's out and running.



We come around the corner to a fence across the trail and a side trail leading off to go around it. It takes us to a little ranch as the trail clearly starts leading us in the wrong direction. An old guy comes us out of the house and redirects us through his ranch to hook back up with the main road and then asks for money for being so 'helpful.' We give him a couple bucks and realize after the fact that his little detour would very likely entirely on purpose. Mexico.

We had a couple get-offs and P's license was almost falling off.


I'm exhausted and P needs to fix her plate so we take a break.


Ever since getting my thumb caught in P's bike earlier, my thumb has been surprisingly painful and is getting pretty swollen. I grab the tip of my thumb and pull on it to discover it's moving like it has an extra knuckle just behind the thumbnail... The damn thing is broken!!!!


At long last the dirt road ends.. Glad to be done with that road and glad to be a little closer to home.


Back lickety split to San Ignacio to grab lunch and have a photo shoot with the locals.




We decide to camp it tonight so we head back to the same camp ground that we saw Mike at earlier in the trip.






Hey cool, its changing colors!!






We decide to eat the rest of the supplies we have in our bags as we're winding down the trip. Basic stuff but quite tasty.


I spend an hour or so trying to catch bullfrogs at the lagoon then head to bed.

At 12:00 I wake up and look out my tent to see a shadow standing silently in the camp. Apparently someone was sneaking around looking for an opportunity theft. After some non-productive dialogue P wakes up and tried to talk to the guy who seems a little drunk. He keeps repeating no problem, no problem and wanders off. We pull everything we have into the tents and ass back out to the roar of a thousand bull frogs.


UP NEXT: Slab to San Quintin

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Old 08-11-2014, 01:52 PM   #107
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Sounds like you rode the Baja Mil route which some folks call the high road. If you turned towards the coast, there's a route called the low road or salt flats road. It can take you through some dunes if the tide is high but does not involve those nasty silt beds, nor the notorious toll rancher...

This is looking south so you would hang a left at this sign....



Enjoying the RR so finish it up. That must have taken a good effort to ride those 90 miles in to San Ignacio.
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Old 08-11-2014, 02:34 PM   #108
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Originally Posted by The Walrus View Post
Sounds like you rode the Baja Mil route which some folks call the high road. If you turned towards the coast, there's a route called the low road or salt flats road. It can take you through some dunes if the tide is high but does not involve those nasty silt beds, nor the notorious toll rancher...

This is looking south so you would hang a left at this sign....



Enjoying the RR so finish it up. That must have taken a good effort to ride those 90 miles in to San Ignacio.

Dammit! I remember that sign, we didn't know for sure if that was the salt flats road or not so we stuck with what I could see on my garmin. The people in town said the road could be impassable with the tide so it seemed like the safer choice. And yes, the 90 miles we're quite draining. Nice KTM btw
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Old 08-11-2014, 03:01 PM   #109
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D21

AM in San Ignacio

I'll admit it, I'm homesick. In my mind the more miles the better as work our way to the North. P and I discuss the travel plans, she want's to attend the Overland Expo in Arizona so shes game to slog some miles as well so that's what we do.





Stopped off at this quirky little place to grab some food. Good food but I must admit an odd fellow that runs it. A little twitchy, mutters to himself and mutters back to himself. Schizophrenic but a nice enough guy.

Good tamales but had a bad experience with the coffee, or rather the salt. I didn't read the large writing on the container and instead loaded my coffee up with salt thinking it was sugar. Damn near blew it out of my nose it was so bad. The tamale guy got a good laugh out of this.


Back on the road for a bit then another pit stop.




I love Baja gas stations




From here the road rides the spine of a small mountain range. The road drops off on both sides with an unobscured view as far as the eye can see. Gorgeous ride.








We ride through San Quintin and check out a couple hotels on the main drag. From everything we're seeing on the main road, San Quintin is a butt-hole. The owner of one of the hotels pissed us off enough to start looking off the main drag for a smaller and quieter place. We spot a bill board and ride a few miles towards the coast to investigate.


We roll in to Don Eddies. Cheap, clean, right next to the water, restaurant on premises and the guy is already trying to give us beer. Don Eddies it is.


This boat was half beached just outside our hotel window. Absolutely loved this little boat.


One of my favorite pictures




We did a lot of miles today so it's an early bed. Tomorrow is going to be a long one. We ride to Tecate and hopefully cross back over to the US. These last days are bitter sweet as the trip draws to a close but I'm ready to come home to see the girlfriend, see the fam and restock the beef jerky supply.

UP NEXT: THE LAST DAY!!! Ride like devils to Tecate, a fond farewell and a plugged toilet in Big Bear

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Old 08-11-2014, 05:52 PM   #110
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Great Ride Report! I just took a look at your CO ride report and have to ask what camera did you use for CO and Baja? The photos are great!

Thank you,

Fred
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Old 08-11-2014, 11:00 PM   #111
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Great Ride Report! I just took a look at your CO ride report and have to ask what camera did you use for CO and Baja? The photos are great!

Thank you,

Fred
Believe it or not, an iphone 5s. I use the app Pro HDR on the super saturated looking pictures, the rest are as is and untouched.
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Old 08-12-2014, 11:15 AM   #112
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Bravo!

excellent RR & pics.
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Old 08-12-2014, 11:39 AM   #113
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Believe it or not, an iphone 5s. I use the app Pro HDR on the super saturated looking pictures, the rest are as is and untouched.

That's pretty amazing. After 2 weeks in Nevada my Canon camera is beat up, but the iPhone is fine.
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Old 08-12-2014, 02:34 PM   #114
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That's pretty amazing. After 2 weeks in Nevada my Canon camera is beat up, but the iPhone is fine.
Which Canon? I'm considering getting a nice DSLR like a Canon 7d but have concerns about the bumping and sand/dirt that seems to make it's way into everything. Id hate to spring for one and have it be dead after 1 season, or less.
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2012 F800gs triple black. Ride Reports:Bajalamadingdong COLORADO IRELAND CO to CA CA to CO The Great California U-Turn
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Old 08-12-2014, 03:09 PM   #115
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Which Canon? I'm considering getting a nice DSLR like a Canon 7d but have concerns about the bumping and sand/dirt that seems to make it's way into everything. Id hate to spring for one and have it be dead after 1 season, or less.
G15 - Had them since the G6. Pretty tough, small and powerful. DSLR is too big (and nice) for me. I get a new G every 3 years or so.
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Old 08-12-2014, 04:41 PM   #116
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Laugh We was here!!!!!

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Originally Posted by BRUTSQD View Post



Stopped off at this quirky little place to grab some food. Good food but I must admit an odd fellow that runs it. A little twitchy, mutters to himself and mutters back to himself. Schizophrenic but a nice enough guy.



OUR STICKER !!!

You must have been right behind us.
I forgot my camera here after a burrito stop and realized it 30 miles down the road.
Been here twice


Keep up the great RR.
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Old 08-13-2014, 01:02 PM   #117
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I am going to be riding Baja on my F800 this December and was wondering if you did anything special like remapping your bike for crappy fuel. Or did you do nothing and the bike ran like a champ? I keep reading horror stories about how F800's fail with crappy gas and then of course many stories of how the bikes really didn't care what gas you gave them and they rode like champs the whole time.

Great RR BTW. I am pumped to go down there and have a bit of fun with the Boys. There will be 4 F800's on this trip.
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Old 08-13-2014, 04:17 PM   #118
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Which Canon? I'm considering getting a nice DSLR like a Canon 7d but have concerns about the bumping and sand/dirt that seems to make it's way into everything. Id hate to spring for one and have it be dead after 1 season, or less.
Love me my DSLR, but no way I'd haul it around on the back of a bike. Not only would it take up a ton of room, but it'd also get trashed with the conditions, like you mentioned. Not just the camera but the lenses - unless you plan on just going with a 50mm lens, at which point you're limiting yourself a lot. Maybe have a think about some of the new compact digital cameras that are coming with the interchangeable lenses. (Lumix, Sony makes one, think Olympus does too, but not Canon at the moment.) About half the size of a DSLR, and smaller lenses - only problem is, they're all proprietary.

If/when I go, I'd take my wee Olympus Tough along, like this, which did the job nicely in Hawaii and gave remarkably good pictures. Even has a built in GPS. Also survived tumbling down a hill of lava rock, rough surf, and all sorts of crap. Methinks it'd be ideal for Baja related shenanigans.

That said, in my opinion, and also judging by the feedback from everyone, you're doing a bloody fine job with just an iphone...
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Old 08-13-2014, 06:32 PM   #119
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Awesome ride report and pics, really enjoying following along with you guys!

That washboard and sand brings back some memories...
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Old 08-18-2014, 09:19 AM   #120
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pekingduc: Thanks man, and yeah, that goddam washboard..

ubermick: I've got the same tough phone actually, I just go to the iphone because it's quick and easy. I'd love to get something nicer but wouldn't want to break it.. Nice cameras and dirt riding don't mix I suppose.

samalama: No remapping needed. I had zero problems and ran whatever gas we came across. I've heard of the same stories but neither of us had any issues at all. Have a great ride!!!

Twisted: That's friggin funny! Yeah I kinda think I must have been right on your heels, we had roughly the same timing. Surprised we didn't run into you, it's ridiculous how small a world Baja is!

OK, gotta post the final day when I get home from work, been too distracted lately and this ride report has taken too long to write. Thanks to everyone whose been reading along!
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