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Old 06-25-2014, 09:54 AM   #1
rossphoto OP
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water pump

How do I know if my water pump is going / gone bad? I just ordered a water pump rebuild kit from KTM twins. I see it's OEM. Is the OEM rebuild kit good or is the CJ designs so much better I should cancel and re order??? Thanks
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Old 06-25-2014, 10:01 AM   #2
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Please read the forum, don't just start threads asking the same old questions. There's the Hall Of Wisdom for starters, which can be found in the sticky at the top of the page called the Orange Crush Thread Index and Links. Also in that link are links to many threads with answers to practically anything you want to know about these bikes...it's all in there.
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Old 06-25-2014, 10:32 AM   #3
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How do I know if my water pump is going / gone bad? ???
Listen to Chuck...

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Please read the forum, don't just start threads asking the same old questions. There's the Hall Of Wisdom for starters ...it's all in there.
+1 (But we should give the guy a break; he's a Dead Head. A little too much ganja will do that.)
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Old 06-25-2014, 11:27 AM   #4
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OK everyone, as I tell all my good buddies often it seems these days, go fuck yourself. LOL, Not meant to get me banned. I know there are tons of topics on the same thing. Sometimes they are not all that easy to find. The search engine on ADV isnt all that great. So Im sorry if it irritates anyone that Im just looking for a quick simple answer to a relatively easy question.

As for being a deadhead I cut my hair years ago havent touched acid in at least 25 years and when and "if" I smoke its usually less than a puff...

so yea, give me a break...
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Old 06-25-2014, 12:12 PM   #5
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go fuck yourself.
Cool. Good luck with your issues. And the bike problems, too. Nothing like flipping off the one large, knowledgeable group on the internet who will bend over backwards to help - as we have you - if you apply yourself just a little.
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Old 06-25-2014, 12:42 PM   #6
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Click here for the answers to all your (KTM ADV) water pump questions.
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Old 06-25-2014, 01:09 PM   #7
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Cool. Good luck with your issues. And the bike problems, too. Nothing like flipping off the one large, knowledgeable group on the internet who will bend over backwards to help - as we have you - if you apply yourself just a little.
LOOK Chuck, you're just like whats wrong with the government and the world for that matter... You're on a high horse for some reason and you "quote" what I say completely out of context... I didnt say go fuck yourself the way you quoted it. Put what I said back into proper context. I was actually being jovial... Go for a ride man, or at least take a Valium. Jeezis
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Old 06-25-2014, 01:10 PM   #8
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Don't pay any attention to these losers !

The best way to check the water pump is to inspect the cam bearings and combination shaft bearings. It only takes a few minutes, and you can adjust the valves at the same time. Thirty minute job tops.

Thanks man... Thats all I Was looking for...
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Old 06-25-2014, 01:11 PM   #9
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Nice, never seen that approach before
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Old 06-25-2014, 01:53 PM   #10
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No doubt you haven't...you'd have to READ the stuff in this forum to have seen it. All those folks who spent all that time taking pictures and documenting their work can just pound...You don't have time.
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Chuckracer screwed with this post 06-25-2014 at 02:00 PM
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Old 06-25-2014, 02:25 PM   #11
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ia this as good as any

And is this is good as any or any recommendations for a good gauge?

http://www.jpcycles.com/product/740-...1&zmap=740-236
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Old 06-25-2014, 02:47 PM   #12
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For anyone else interested I found this and have a question. Which is, after I drill it out how well and how do I go about cleaning it to make sure no metal shavings get left behind?

http://www.ktm950.info/how/Farkels/a...ure_gauge.html
No worries there. Remove the tensioner bolt to drill it out. The gauge is good: you always want the pressure range you're monitoring to fall as close to your gauge's middle range as possible. Mechanical gauges are most accurate at the middle of their range.
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Old 06-25-2014, 02:56 PM   #13
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No worries there. Remove the tensioner bolt to drill it out. The gauge is good: you always want the pressure range you're monitoring to fall as close to your gauge's middle range as possible. Mechanical gauges are most accurate at the middle of their range.
Cool but after I drill it out and thread it hiw doni go about cleaning it so as not to leave behind metal shavings from drilling ? Do I need to completely flush and change the oil after I install the gauge?
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Old 06-25-2014, 04:19 PM   #14
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Cool but after I drill it out and thread it hiw doni go about cleaning it so as not to leave behind metal shavings from drilling ? Do I need to completely flush and change the oil after I install the gauge?
? No shavings to leave behind: With the tensioner cap off the engine, all the work required will be performed on the bench. Once it's drilled & tapped, thoroughly inspect, de-burr and clean as needed prior to reinstalling on the bike.

It's recommended you use a "permanent" thread locker on the oil/flare fitting because you will no longer be able to use an Allen wrench on the modified cam tensioner cap. You could use Vice grips or channel-locks on the cap but that will leave teeth marks.

I hope that answers the question.

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Old 06-25-2014, 05:02 PM   #15
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I've made my share of stupid comments on this site, even mistakenly called out one of the most dedicated riders here as being a poser (hi Donnie!), but Chuckracer is out of bounds on his comment and should at least man-up and post an apology for being a complete and total ass.
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