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Old 02-06-2014, 04:10 AM   #1
Master OP
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1190 Air Box 2013 VS 2014

Just finished installing the 2014 air box components on my 2013 R. Thought I'd share my experiences for further reference. No pictures though, was in a hurry.

Differences: the 2014 has an extra plastic wall at the front of the airbox which will supposedly make it withstand more to warping. I could not see any difference in the filter holder, but changed it anyway. The 2014 O-rings that seal the connection to the injection module are thicker.

Installing is a bit a PITA due to not having a lot of wiggling room.

- First: take off the tank (refer to the Nerb video here)
- Disconnect the connector of the temp sensor and take off the lid of the air box (8 screws) and disconnect the hose on the rear. The lid did not change and is reused.
- Remove the air filter element
- Remove the intake trumpets (2 screws with bushings each). Don't drop stuff into the intake ports.
- Pull the air box up and to the rear. Disconnect the snorkels
- Disconnect the following from under the air box: Sas valve, Sas hose and drain hose.
- Now carefully lift the box out of the bike. Take the O-rings off of your inlet ports.
- Install the filter holder, rubber sleeves where the snorkels connect and the o-rings on your new air box.
- Fit the air box in place, make sure the inlet ports are properly set in the grooves with o-rings of the airbox. Connect the sas valve, sas hose and drain hose to the bottom of the new air box.
- Reinstall the intake trumpets
- Reinstall the air filter. I greased it along the rubber edges to make them seal better.
- Reinstall the lid, don't forget to reconnect the hose on the rear and the connector for the air temp sensor.
- Reinstall the tank and fairing.
- Don't worry about the fuel level blinking on the display after reinstalling the tank. I thought I broke something, but after a few minutes, everything was normal again. It seems the fuel level sensor needs to calibrate for some time after disconnecting it or something.

I took a testride afterwards and everything was fine. I hope this update will make my airbox seal better.
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Old 02-06-2014, 05:05 AM   #2
dgardel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Master View Post
Just finished installing the 2014 air box components on my 2013 R. Thought I'd share my experiences for further reference. No pictures though, was in a hurry.

Differences: the 2014 has an extra plastic wall at the front of the airbox which will supposedly make it withstand more to warping. I could not see any difference in the filter holder, but changed it anyway. The 2014 O-rings that seal the connection to the injection module are thicker.

Installing is a bit a PITA due to not having a lot of wiggling room.

- First: take off the tank (refer to the Nerb video here)
- Disconnect the connector of the temp sensor and take off the lid of the air box (8 screws) and disconnect the hose on the rear. The lid did not change and is reused.
- Remove the air filter element
- Remove the intake trumpets (2 screws with bushings each). Don't drop stuff into the intake ports.
- Pull the air box up and to the rear. Disconnect the snorkels
- Disconnect the following from under the air box: Sas valve, Sas hose and drain hose.
- Now carefully lift the box out of the bike. Take the O-rings off of your inlet ports.
- Install the filter holder, rubber sleeves where the snorkels connect and the o-rings on your new air box.
- Fit the air box in place, make sure the inlet ports are properly set in the grooves with o-rings of the airbox. Connect the sas valve, sas hose and drain hose to the bottom of the new air box.
- Reinstall the intake trumpets
- Reinstall the air filter. I greased it along the rubber edges to make them seal better.
- Reinstall the lid, don't forget to reconnect the hose on the rear and the connector for the air temp sensor.
- Reinstall the tank and fairing.
- Don't worry about the fuel level blinking on the display after reinstalling the tank. I thought I broke something, but after a few minutes, everything was normal again. It seems the fuel level sensor needs to calibrate for some time after disconnecting it or something.

I took a testride afterwards and everything was fine. I hope this update will make my airbox seal better.
Could you give us an idea of the parts total costs???
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Old 02-06-2014, 05:12 AM   #3
Sumi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgardel View Post
Could you give us an idea of the parts total costs???
http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....3&postcount=14
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Old 02-06-2014, 05:35 AM   #4
dgardel
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thank you m8
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Old 02-06-2014, 06:38 AM   #5
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I know, but I'm a bit reluctant to the UNI filters. I'm not sure I want an oiled filter in there, as they only function when properly oiled, which would imply opening the air box up on a very regular base.
Also, I can't get an answer from UNI whether or not the mapping needs to be adjusted for having more/less air flow. I think they don't want to be responsible when something would go wrong. I will stick with the paper KTM filter (which also worked flawlessly in my 990 for years) for now. I am however contemplating on getting a UNI set and only installing the part that seals the gap between air box and cover.
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Old 02-06-2014, 07:31 AM   #6
dgardel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Master View Post
I know, but I'm a bit reluctant to the UNI filters. I'm not sure I want an oiled filter in there, as they only function when properly oiled, which would imply opening the air box up on a very regular base.
Also, I can't get an answer from UNI whether or not the mapping needs to be adjusted for having more/less air flow. I think they don't want to be responsible when something would go wrong. I will stick with the paper KTM filter (which also worked flawlessly in my 990 for years) for now. I am however contemplating on getting a UNI set and only installing the part that seals the gap between air box and cover.
I bought the UNI Filter kit, but I used only the "Perimetrical" foam gasket
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Old 02-06-2014, 07:46 AM   #7
Tjeu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobZorba View Post
Even after fitting the 2014 airbox (which is an improvement) there are people who emailed me saying the paper element filters still let fine dust through. The 2014 version Unifilters do not let any dust through, they are inexpensive and you can order online (they are shipped from Australia). Touratec will stock the 2014 Unifilters in a few months time.

FYI, Both the 2013 and 2014 UniFilters for 1190's can be ordered here:

http://www.uniflow.com.au/contents/en-us/d321.html

If you don't ride in the dust all of the time, why would you install them? The 201 airbox is perfect and the unifilter reduce the power and increase fuel consumption.

So thanks but no thanks.
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Old 02-06-2014, 11:06 AM   #8
Womble_CH
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tjeu View Post
The 201 airbox is perfect
Where can I find proof for this statement ?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tjeu View Post
the unifilter reduce the power and increase fuel consumption.
Where can I find proof for this statement ?
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Old 02-06-2014, 02:10 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobZorba View Post
What Tjeu said is true on both things.

I read that dust still passes the 2014 airbox. So from my point of view its not 'perfect', never mind your references.

I have read Filtermans posts re the 1190 filters and have them myself. So no need to sell them to me. And yes, only a Dyno at identical conditions could show a measurable difference if there is any. Everything else is guestimating. 1% is nothing, probably even within a dyno tolerance.


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Old 02-06-2014, 03:03 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by RobZorba View Post
Proof its the airbox and not the paper filter?

I have no need for that proof. They have to work together flawlessly. Until that's the case, the Uni is my choice of filter.


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Old 02-06-2014, 03:32 PM   #11
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On some early 1190 threads there was talk of water getting into the air box soaking the paper filter. Not sure if it was ever tested or proved but I would have thought the Unifilter ( triple filter kit) would reduce the chances of the engine ingesting water.

Any thoughts or experience ?
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Old 02-06-2014, 09:44 PM   #12
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dont think the filter material would play a significant role in water ingestion, other than a paper filter will fall apart and a foam one wont. If you get into deep enough water you are getting your airfilter wet, then the engine is going to be drinking it.
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Old 02-06-2014, 09:49 PM   #13
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When I took my 2014 apart I saw a water drain in the duct before the filter. So unless you submerse it past the entrance to the airbox, water should drain before it gets sucked into the filter.
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Old 02-07-2014, 01:22 AM   #14
Tjeu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Womble_CH View Post



Where can I find proof for this statement ?
There is a graph of this on here somewhere. I think in the "adventure problems" topic. The unifilter set you back about 20hp. One of the reply's was from Schussboelie. Maybee you find it faster that way.

Nevertheless, the more you filter, the less air can enter, the less mixture can enter the engine, the less power you have. It's just how fysics work.
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Old 02-10-2014, 01:37 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Tjeu View Post
There is a graph of this on here somewhere. I think in the "adventure problems" topic. The unifilter set you back about 20hp. One of the reply's was from Schussboelie. Maybee you find it faster that way.

Nevertheless, the more you filter, the less air can enter, the less mixture can enter the engine, the less power you have. It's just how fysics work.
I just fitted the Unifilter and there is no way you lose 20hp....thats a massive loss and would be easily noticable when riding the bike, so I call bullshit on that theory ;)

My seat of the pants dyno reckons if anything you gain a pony or two, but that could just be in my head.

Also, you are completely wrong in your statement about the more you filter... etc. You are thinking purely of blocking air intake, not filtering efficiency. A dense paper filter will reduce air intake, reducing power. A less dense, but more effecient filtering medium such as an oiled foam filter will allow more air to pass through, while maintaining the filtering ability of the paper filter (or close to it) increasing power. Physics....its not that straight forward
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