I have found that Lowe's carries different products in all the stores around my area. So it's something that everyone will have to check out for themselves. Lowe's doesn't do MSDS but the manufacturer should have the MSDS available.
@Hoehleneule pinesol will eat cad plating. stripped the cad plating right off the mounting brackets and linkage to my '92 shadow when i did the pinsol dunking. i don't remember the details of my dunk, but i don't think i diluted it and i don't think i soaked overnight.
Looking at the ad, it says "90% ACTIVE INGREDIENTS: Pine oil, surfactants". To me, that says it is less than 90% pine oil; the rest of the 90% is something else. Amazon used to sell this same product, but they don't anymore. One reviewer says it's been watered down from what it previously was: https://www.amazon.com/OLDE-TYME-18...show_all_btm?ie=UTF8&reviewerType=all_reviews FWIW, the highest claimed pine oil concentration I've seen for anything is that 15% for the Clorox commercial Pine-Sol. I don't work for or otherwise get money from any companies mentioned. Hoehleneule
Here are some pics of my carter after ultrasonic cleaning at 50 degrees (c) in a 50/50 hot water pine sol mix - u def want to get most of the gunk off form the outside. These carbs had sat for almost 10 years, the gas was super noxious! The float bowls had a layer of gunk before - and came out incredibly clean. Mine is a cheapo 15L form Ebay ($158), with what seems like 6 transducers.. I will keep trying with different solutions - you DEF want to rinse it in a clean tub of water after, and blow out with compressed air. Once thats done you SERIOUSLY need to spray any metal bits with wd40 - incl baffles, and dont forget the steel balls sometimes found inside one way acceleration pump jets (like the carter carbs), springs, linkages and butterfly screwsx. Anything metal needs a coat of light oil - these chemicals accelerate rust -
My experience with original PineSol is that it loses its cleaning power after about 24 hours. I've tried straining, etc and the leftovers after cleaning don't seem to work at all.
Seems to work if I leave the parts in the bucket for a couple days?Or could be the other cleaners finding their way in the bucket? My bike was so dirty after the season....dried out salty mud etc.....only thing that cut through that was the original PineSol applied close to full strength with a paint brush and left on for an hour. Kerosene first for the road tar/greases/oils then PineSol. Mind you.....Lestoil is a better cleaner than PineSol. https://www.thecloroxcompany.com/en...heavy-duty-multi-purpose-cleaner-44600339160/
I’m on the dohc forum and swear by the pinesol method,it works awesome. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
As long as it has pine oil in it. Some Pinesol doesn't contain pine oil. Read the label to know. I found some strong generic stuff at Big Lots. It burns the nose and will need to be cut 50/50 with aqua.
I use the dollar store version...not quite as “toxic” as the real thing :) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
So I dropped the carbs in the tank Saturday afternoon and pulled them out tonight. It did liquefy some of the gunk which made it easier to clean, it did cause some surface rust on the brackets that connects them, and it helped free up the butterfly valves that were sticking. I had to work them open and closed, sprayed them with carb cleaner and worked them some more for them to free up enough to where they'll snap shut. I put the carbs back in the tank to let them soak a couple more days and hopefully clean up the rest of the gunk. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I'd say it was a success and I'd rather smell pine sol than Barryman's Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Had these sitting in gas for a week and it didn't touch the varnish on the needles. Soaked it in 100% pine sol last night and it cleaned them right up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Check your two upper needles against the two bottom needles. They appear to be worn. It doesn't take much wear on the needles to cause one or more cylinders to run a little richer than the others. I replaced all the needles on a late 80's GSXR600 because it was fouling the two center plugs. Those two center needles had a better waistline than pin up models.
Well, I put everything back together last night, installed the carbs on the bike and it fired right up. But, I have a leak on the "fuel rail" so I'll be pulling them off the bike and replacing all of the o-rings between the carbs since I'm going to have to separate them. I'm not sure if the Pine-Sol caused this or if it's because the o-ring dried out and now leaks under pressure. Before the tear down, that carb was not receiving gas. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
PineSol generally does not affect gaskets/rubber bits - that's why it's so popular (as well as cleaning real well). RE: carb needles - I know some air-cooled in-line 4s needed richer mixtures for the center 2 cylinders due to heat. Might want to look at the parts breakdown to see if there is a difference in part #s.
Dang, I guess I should fully read threads before getting excited... Had some Pine-Sol on the shelf, but only enough for 1 carb internals, so off to Sam's to get a 2 pack of 100 oz each. After soaking overnight, guess which one was the old Pine-Sol. (they all looked the same when poured) EDIT post 6 hours later: Despite the seemingly lack of chemical cleaning action in the new Pine-Sol, it did do a decent job of cleaning the carbs. Some parts, were discolored more, such as jets turning burnt orange, which did not happen with original old Pine-Sol. After only soaking for about 18 hours, a lot of junk was removed and suspended in the liquid from what I thought were fairly clean carbs. Now, I cannot say old is better than new from this short cleaning. Photo is ingredients of older Pine-Sol