Solution for connecting multiple items to battery?

Yes if we only knew what "onw" meant. This noob has no clue. Tks.

Long as you don't mix up the + and -, you'll be fine. Remember to put a fuse inline just in case.

Also, you shouldn't need to cut any factory wiring. You can almost always get the right connectors and make up your own pigtails if you look around.

Yup relayed controlled 6 circuit fuse block with a couple of runs that are always on.
Another vote for BlueSea, it's expensiveish, but they make decent equipment that holds up on a motorcycle.
And having a fuse block is so much better and safer vs trying to get everything hooked up all wonky like to the battery.

While the OP is looking at YouTube U, look up proper way to crimp wires and use heat shrink.
HolleyMSD have some good almost entertaining videos on the basics of 12vdc wiring hook ups.

Do it right the first time, it will save you so much aggravation down the road. on the side of the road, at night, in a rainstorm...
Which is when the magic smoke most often escapes out of the electrical system.

Innovv Power Hub.

https://www.innovv.com/innovv-power-hub1-cjxt

Learn how to soler and heat shrink. Only if you want it to last, that is.

Another vote for Eastern Beaver. Provides both keyed and unkeyed connections. Great for us electrically challenged morons!

Great stuff guys, thanks again. Maggot12 - that diagram helps me understand a lot.

So by way of example - With any Eastern Beaver unit/Fuzeblocks/Blue Sea block, once the unit itself is connected to the battery terminals via the wires that come with the unit (I know some don't include wires, but offer them as options), I then connect each accessory to the block? So right now each of my bikes has a USB outlet that runs straight to the battery. Instead of running that wire straight to the battery I would now cut the wire and connect the (+) wire to one side of the distribution block and the (-) to the other side of the distribution block? Is that right?

The one part I'm still a little confused about is the need to "tap into a switched power source." How do I know where to do that?

Good to hear that it's for us "electrically challenged". I went to their website and there's a separate page for '14 and up Vstroms that looks very complex and intimidating. I'll have to give it another look.

I’ve installed both Blue Sea and Fuzeblocks on my bikes. Blue
Sea is a bit more ‘primitive. Fuzeblock, once installed, is much more user-friendly when it comes to adding elements to it. Can’t go wrong either way.

Use heavy wire like 12 ga. from the distribution block to the + and - on the battery. That way you can use lighter gauge wire 16-18-20 to your accessories, as is appropriate for the load.

The relay is used as a remote switch to turn the 12V power off or on to the distribution block/accessories. The switched power source "triggers" the relay to provide 12V to the distribution block. The 85 terminal on the relay "needs" to "know" when the bike is on so it can supply the power to the distribution block. It gets this signal from any switched power source.

FWIW I recommend Posi-Taps over the Scotchlock T-taps for tapping the switched power lead you choose.

Hope this makes sense as I am a wiring neophyte myself but OCD about wiring.

Yes...once the fuse block is connected to the battery, then you just hook up your accessories to the fuse block.

On my Africa Twin, the battery is a huge pain to get to, so the Easter Beaver block is fantastic. Only have to access the battery once, and then I put the fuse block under my seat which has easy access. The unit includes a plug that goes into the existing electrical harness, and that provides the "keyed" connections. I don't know if this applies to all bikes. The battery connection cables were included on mine.

Thanks Bob!

I know what you mean about the AT's battery being a pain to get to. I just watched this video of a guy installing the Eastern Beaver PC-8 on his Africa Twin. He did a great job showing the installation in detail, but 10 minutes of the video is him digging out the battery, connecting the two leads, and putting the battery back in.

You can use just about anything that turns on with the ignition.

The relay is just a switch that gets thrown when you apply current to it instead of using a manual toggle.

You get the current from any convenient circuit on the bike that's only powered when the bike is on. That current "closes" the switch in the relay, which allows juice to flow to your fuse block.

The point of the relay is so that the things connected to the fuse block don't drain the battery when the key is off.

That's the whole point once connected to the battery that at a location that you happy with. Under seat or wherever, you won't have to go digging into the battery every time.

The "tap into wire" needs to power the relay when the key is turned on. Many modern bikes with have and empty plug/connector somewhere under the seat area. Try and find a switched power wire somewhere and plug/tap into that. Can tap the hot tail light wire, if you can't find a blank connector

Not to hijack, does the innovv unit have a parasitic draw due to the internal power delay circuitry? One of the reviews on amazon indicated that it might. Thanks in advance!

I don't own it but my bet is no. I guess there is a relay activated by a switched power source. Why wouldn't they simply put the power delay circuitry "after" the relay?

@AdvNener that's what I would think too. Their description states “once ignition on/off, the connected devices/accessories will power up/off after 10 seconds delay that is to avoid power supply to devices drop down when engine start/stop.” This indicates that the device is still drawing power for at least 10 seconds after the bike is shut off?? The Innovv would be a good fit for my bike but this part concerns me. I might reach out to the company and ask directly, if I get an answer I’ll include it here.

https://advrider.com/f/threads/spring-sale-by-antigravity-batteries-upto-40-off.1434714/

I run a thicker gauge wire set off the battery. Fuse protected power wire to a relay. The relay is auto switched on with a key on hot wire. Then run the power to a short bus bar like this one. Ground from battery goes straight to the (-) side of the bus bar. Components then tap into the bus. Component power is usually interrupted by a dash mounted switch. Some items get there own additional fuse. Some items get a dash indicator light. Anyways, when I shut the bike off, everything shuts off. Looked at getting one of those fuse banks, but too big for my bike as all this additional wiring sits behind the headlight cowl.