Regarding the mouse problem, real seem to br missing the proper solution... get a cat or 2. Even if the cats don't catch the mice, they'll know the cats are about and stay away. I've never been without cats and have never had a mouse problem.
Mainly for all the parts matching (RMZ) and the bigger 20 mm axle plus I have had that RMZ front wheel and axle for a long time now. I could machine a new hub (To take the heavier gauge Buchanan DR spokes with bigger OD bearings) but have way to many projects now. I will take a closer look once I get this mess in order.
Yes. But you would have to carefully set up the rods so that nothing touched the +positive rods. I would make a custom plug so that a pair of rods would splay out either side, and make sure it can breath. Remember that the negative attaches to the part you are removing rust from, so in this case it will be the +positive connected to those two internal rods, which must not touch the tank internally, and the negative to the tank itself, like onto the mounting bolt holes for example. I've had amazing success with electrolysis using a battery charger and washing soda, in hours removing the rust from century old horse shoes and anything else I've wanted cleaned up. Learnt it on Youtube - who'd a thunk it???
cool idea. I have a generator that was given to me and the tank is horribly rusted inside. The price of a new tank is more half the price of the same generator when it's on sale
Brake cleaner on a rag does the same. +1 for SSB, I have 4 in current use without issue, except for the occasional really cold, below 0 C, am start when they need some warming. Maybe a leaner oil mix too, 20:1 will leave a lot of smoke behind.
On the jump starter thing, I recommend everyone fit a permanent Anderson plug to their bike. I carry a short Anderson plugged jumper lead, along with an alligator clip tail in case the other battery doesn't have an Anderson connection. I''ve usually got a hill around here for bump starting, but outback, on the flat and in some sand, its not so simple.
Puzzled by the statement that it fits all 50A Anderson type connectors. I use those a lot- on my camper, on my van, on battery chargers, the really big 350A ones on vehicle winches, etc BUT-I found out the hard way that the different color Anderson's don't plug into each other- I usually buy grey but ran across some red ones at a good price-ordered some and they won't plug into the grey! Keyed differently. A few minutes with a dremel and a burr fixed that but caveat emptor. Hopefully they made those without the keyed center part.
Ones I've setup so far have been fine. Maybe there is an Anderson licencing/IP thing that other manufacturers have to deal with?
You tell me now. After the gouge coming back from the Cape I just grabbed the stand leg and pulled (bent) it away from the swing arm but it was a bit late by then.
The bike ? A 1954 Sunbeam S7 Deluxe, I have a 1949 also which is getting a full mechanical but no cosmetic. I have a AMR300 supercharger that I would like to fit to the 49 but not sure if that is a good idea or not, 25 HP standard but that could bump it to stock DR HP (34hp) Then again with it bolted to the DR780 ????
That's the issue. I parked my DR at a mate's place and it was a bit soft and I did an awkward dismount and bike went over along with me. Stationary, and would have been a laugh, I even nearly laughed myself. Before I moved off I checked the stand, and sure enough, it'd bent in, the only damage, along with my pride, not that I have much left! So I tweaked it there and then. Most of the time, if people have an off, they don't check the sidestand swingarm clearance and then, like you observed, its too late. A bit of stainless sheet is perfect, but steel or aluminium is better than nothing. Looks like @JNS Engineering will be making them real soon, maybe Others have glued rubber or something else there, or a couple of nutserts and a plate would work too, but this design is the easiest to implement, and its robust enough. The pic was originally posted here; https://advrider.com/f/threads/a-dr650se-for-africa-built-in-switzerland.1203292/
Since it's in the name of science (and the promise of beer) I've volunteered to donate a cylinder head to the cause. Stay tuned, folks.